My 73 Chevelle turbo LS swap

How's the ls run as far as seat of the pants kick

McCauley5983 wrote:How's the ls run as far as seat of the pants kick

Its good, a hell of alot better than the 115hp 307 it came with originally. Its not a race car by any means, but its plenty fast for a stock 4.8l (292ci) engine in a car that probably weighs 4000lbs, and it will start in any weather with no issues.

I'm thinking about an lq4 truck motor really don't want to go with anything smaller the 400 really spoiled me when it came to power. I just really want something I can readily get quality parts for. There is so much Chinese carp out there for the sbc that everybody wants an arm and a leg for that might last a couple of trips around the block. I always wanted a twin turbo setup but that's nearly impossible on a reliable carbed driver. That and I think it's time to step into the 21st century and learn my generations technology. But damn I still love me some good carburetor

How's it feel with the th350 my only real concern is the rpm range I would be operating in since I don't have overdrive not that it should make much difference since I have a 308

Driving with the th350 feels just like it would with a normal 275hp sbc, except its fuel injected and you dont have to worry about if its gonna start. Mine has 3.08s also, and even with the huge converter I have in it (3200+stall) it drives perfectly normal everywhere.

The lq4s were 300+hp and 360+tq stock, so pretty good baseline numbers to start with. Then once you put e-fans, headers, exhaust, some kind of cold air intake, and a good tune your probably looking at around 360hp/400tq or more, add a good cam to the mix and youll easily see another 40+hp/tq.

I agree, it is hard to argue with the new LS engines.

I was trying to keep mine simple and the cost down so I was going to build a 383 and not have the trouble and cost of a LS swap. But by the time I figured all the parts and machine work and a 700R4 for overdrive I realized I was within $2,000 of an LS.

So long story short I bought the LS3/430HP Connect and Cruise package with full warranty and I am sure it will be great. It is hard to argue with the reliability, power and mileage of the new engines. Mine is the 430 Horsepower one but I see them fresh out of the crate dyno at 490 horsepower so it appears that the numbers published by GM are very conservative.

Hope you will keep us posted on your new engine and what all is involved. Have also been researching these new engines. Yikes,, after all the money I put into my small block build and all the mods.

Wish you the best. Should be very rewarding once your up and running.

which motor mount brackets did you use a lot of what im seeing says it will move the engine back an inch is this ok or should i find stock placement

Mine is still in the crate waiting for me to have time but I know Wallyup has recently done the swap and has all the answers.

I bought the BRP Hotrods mounts and their Mid-Length headers but have not tried to install any of it.

Headers I'm going to struggle with while still trying to maintain mechanical clutch linkage deadman makes some but it says hydraulic clutch only. Hooker has some cast ones but it's hard to gauge what I'm going to need so far it looks like buy some mounts see where I'm at and go from there

McCauley5983 wrote:which motor mount brackets did you use a lot of what im seeing says it will move the engine back an inch is this ok or should i find stock placement

Ok Here is what I know fits or works and what I ended up with for the final install and it working well.

1) Oil pan The Holley 302-1 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-302-1 It fits nice and does not hang below the cross member.
The Ctsv pan would not go back to rear of cross member far enough as engine would hit fire wall and it hung down more.
Here is spec sheet link for oil pans. http://www.improvedracing.com/tech/LS-oil-pan-dimensions.php
I used the Summit racing Chevrolet Performance 19212593 - Chevrolet Performance
Muscle car Oil Pan Kits NAL-19212593 on the Laguna and it fit fine but hangs down below the cross member by a 1” plus

2) Headers I used Holley Hooker LS Cast Iron Exhaust Manifolds 8501-3HKR
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-8501-3hkr
They fit like stock exhaust manifolds Then ran 2&1/2" exhaust all the way out to back. That's the minimum size pipe recommended

3) Dirty dingo slider engine mounts. Dingo Slider SBC or BBC to LS Conversion Engine Mounts http://dirtydingo.com/store/index.php?cPath=1_354_322

4) Front drive accessories Holley LS Engine Swap Accessory Drive Systems 20-138 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-20-138 Front drive accessories Holley LS Engine Swap Accessory Drive Systems 20-138 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-20-138 and spacer braket Holley LS Engine Accessory Drive Application-Specific Installation Kits 21-1
and don’t for get to buy the power steer pump reservoir Holley LS Engine Power Steering Reservoir Kits 198-200 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-198-200/overview/

5) Fuel pump I used Aeromotive Phantom 340 Stealth Fuel Systems 18688 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-18688
Here is the pluming diagram http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Phantom-Stealth-Plumbing-Diagram.pdf I used #6 braided line from pump to engine bay and back and AN fittings

6) For your AC system you can use your stock set up you will just need to get two new hoses made for the ends that come off the compressor from Holley kit to you hook ups. And hydraulic hose making place will make them up for us if you have the fittings. I tucked up a Vintage Gen II AC system in mine and it will fit in behind the stock dash but that’s a lot of work if your system is good you can just swap out the hoses and you should be good to go.

7) I did not have to do any cutting but the drive shaft needs to be shortened and I measured it and took it in to have it shortened and balanced with two new u joints. The rear trans cross member only had to drill two new holes and it lined up with one set already in the Frame for me.

Cool I used dual cooling fans Brushless 12” by spal with a variable temp sender that required me to drill and tap my water pump. They are new to the market and are not listed any where yet Pricy but nice. A set of dual electric fans should work fine for you.

9) Air filter we used Airraid 4” kit but was told by dealer NOT TO USE OIL type air filter as it gum’s up mass air flow sensor and Air raid make a non oil filter it’s called SynthaMax http://www.airaid.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=100-400

I've seen the dirty dingo mounts but don't like that they slide I see a lot of issues with these

McCauley5983 wrote:I've seen the dirty dingo mounts but don't like that they slide I see a lot of issues with these

I have had them in two set-ups with no problems but everyone can use what ever they want to.

Just curious the more info I can scrounge the better

All my info is in this thread, but a quick list is
1" setback plates
CTS-V oil pan
Stock truck accesories
98-02 F-body exhaust manifolds

Not my 73, but just figured id leave this here.... Got the 5.3 swap in my 67 running finally  

(sorry about the craptastic vid quality)

Wow that sounds great! How does it sound so healthy? Is that just aftermarket exhaust on a stock 5.3 or has the engine been cammed? Where did the 5.3 come from? I had a 2007 GMC Sierra- would that be the same engine?

Thanks, yea we did some work to the motor.
Engine is an all aluminum (block & heads) 5.3 from 04 Buick Rainier (same as chevy trailblazer)
Its got this cam http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-performance-sns-torquemax-stage-1-camshaft-for-ls1-ls6-engines/
Put stock 4.8l flat top pistons in it which raises the CR from 9.5 to 10.4.
Put the newer, better flowing truck intake on it.
Hedman midlength headers into 2.5" exhaust with x-pipe, 2 chamber Flowmasters and tailpipes
Still needs to be tuned, but Im slowly working on that...lol.
Once its tuned right and running good Im hoping to get it on the dyno, Ive seen similar setups make 330-340hp at the wheels (420ish crank hp)

That does sound nice... It sounds alot bigger than 325 cubes.

Well between life getting in the way and trying to finish my '67 the '73 got put on the back burner for the last year.  But now that thats all finished up its time to start back on the '73.

Heres a pic or 2 of the '67.





Underhood wasnt 100% done in these pics

Now on to the '73, so I went and ordered a mess of parts for it

Turbo manifold


Intercooler & turbo blanket


Wastegate, BOV, and intercooler piping


Turbo


Boost controller


Mounted the 2 step on top of the intake so it fits under the cover

Also got a cam and valve springs for it


Ripped the car apart and changed the cam and springs, then started mocking everything up to see what else needed to be done.

Ended up having to put new motor mounts on it and space them up about 5/16" to get the turbo manifold to clear the upper control arm bolt (that I still had to grind alittle off of anyways).


Bought some 80lbs injectors for it and a few rolls of DEI heat wrap.



then started mocking up the intercooler

So then I figured that I already have a bunch of 4" mandrel bends laying around from another project that never got started, why not use them to build a 4" downpipe?  Possibly not my best idea.. you dont realize how big 4" is untill you start comparing it to other things....

4" vs 2.5"





Thats all the pics I have right now, just currently waiting on some more parts while Im figuring out how to run the exhaust

Nice work!  Are you concerned, though, about the heat coming off that turbo in proximity to the plastic fenderwell?  I know from personal experience that they're easy to melt.  Are you planning some sort of heat shield in between?