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1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic Progress Photo's aka Mali

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1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic Progress Photo's aka Mali - Page 24 Empty Re: 1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic Progress Photo's aka Mali

Post by ant7377 Tue Aug 19, 2014 9:59 am

Jeez Paul you really tore into it. Gonna come out nice. Dont get your hand stuck in the blower motor hole. Ask me how I know this.
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Post by 1973 454 MONTE Tue Aug 19, 2014 11:22 am

i think the arm bar is different for the column to pass by
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Post by Joe73 Tue Aug 19, 2014 1:08 pm

1973 454 MONTE wrote:i think the arm bar is different for the column to pass by

That is correct. Its to clear the steering column.
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Post by thatfnthing Tue Aug 19, 2014 1:20 pm

Joe73 wrote:
1973 454 MONTE wrote:i think the arm bar is different for the column to pass by

That is correct.  Its to clear the steering column.

That seems kinda odd. I have the same arrangement, but the steering column never gets within 2 inches of it.
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Post by dynchel Tue Aug 19, 2014 1:21 pm

Smoking Maybe i was never taught the safe way to remove coils but I have been doing springs for the last twenty years & I have never compressed one to remove it or used a chain.  Guess what..I've never had one come flying out.  I always remove the spindle (with a floor jack under the lower control arm, frame on stands)  When the spindle is out of the way, slowly let the jack down (make sure you & the jack are in front of the car, not next to it)  more often than not the coil can be removed by hand, if not there is very little tension left in it.  There is nothing wrong with being safe i'm just speaking of my expierence. drunken
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Post by 77mali Tue Aug 19, 2014 2:27 pm

Last thing I need is a hit in the sack with a coiled spring. My wife would be devastated if I couldn't "perform". LOL

It is strange that the two sides of the arm are different as the aftermarket ones seem to be identical on both sides, at least from what I've seen. Anyway thanks everyone for cluing me in that it's at least factory correct.
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Post by 77mali Tue Aug 19, 2014 2:29 pm

ant7377 wrote:Jeez Paul you really tore into it. Gonna come out nice. Dont get your hand stuck in the blower motor hole. Ask me how I know this.

I hope so! It's been a lot of work just to that point.

How in the name of goodness did you get your hand stuck in the blower hole???? Shocked 
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Post by 77mali Tue Aug 19, 2014 7:15 pm

Hawk03 wrote:Looking good! I was starting to wonder if you still had the car  Wink 

The control arms are just like i have on mine, not sure why there is a difference between the two sides.

HA! Me too- it's been under-cover so long that it started to blend into the driveway!  Razz 
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Post by ant7377 Tue Aug 19, 2014 8:57 pm

77mali wrote:
ant7377 wrote:Jeez Paul you really tore into it. Gonna come out nice. Dont get your hand stuck in the blower motor hole. Ask me how I know this.

I hope so!  It's been a lot of work just to that point.  

How in the name of goodness did you get your hand stuck in the blower hole???? Shocked 

On my 73 I was trying to clean in there. There was some crap and a dead mouse in there and I kinda got my hand in there backwards and my wrist caught on the sheet metal . Kinda scary for a few seconds. It was all assembled so I was in a awkward positon to reach in there too. Get that glass fuel filter off your car too. Those things can break. Earls makes a nice stainless one they sell it in Jegs. With barbed fittings.
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Post by 77mali Tue Aug 19, 2014 9:32 pm

LOL. When I was doing the roof last time I had the door open & the cord for the sander got caught when I closed it. I didn't realize it at the time and when I went to reach to do some sanding on the opposite side, I went to pull the sander over and ended up slipping off a tire I was standing on & slammed my face on the roof! I thought I dented it w/ my forehead. 
Laughing 
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Post by Fishgrinder Wed Aug 20, 2014 1:52 am

Nice job! Are you putting in new bushings and ball joints?

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Post by 77mali Wed Aug 20, 2014 6:11 am

Thanks, I plan to get all Moog products.
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Post by pila Wed Aug 20, 2014 9:32 pm

You are looking good Paul !
One way to get the rivets clipped off of the upper ball joint is to center-punch the tops, drill into them about 3/16 of an inch with a 3/16 inch drill. That weakens the heads enough to knock them off with a chisel.

Works for me...

Bil

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Post by 77mali Wed Aug 20, 2014 9:35 pm

Thanks for the tip my friend. You done painting yet? Very Happy 
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Post by Joe73 Wed Aug 20, 2014 10:05 pm

I just use a cheapo air chisel with a flat bit. Shears the heads off rear quick.
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Post by 77mali Thu Aug 21, 2014 6:50 am

My harbor freight air chisel's plastic trigger broke Joe. I've had it a while but this was the 1st time I've used it. I chiseled out the shock nut up top near the upper arm. I started on those rivets with it and then it $h!t the bed. I hope they make good on replacing it but I doubt it. The store near me sucks for customer service. We'll see.
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Post by thatfnthing Thu Aug 21, 2014 9:12 am

Get out your dremel and slice up the rivet heads, then a good old fashioned hammer and chisel (or even a screwdriver) should finish the job.
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Post by pila Thu Aug 21, 2014 10:16 pm

Paul...I just painted the inside of the bed on the Elco project, so I can cover/mask it off, to paint the rest of the body.....

I don't have an air hammer like the body guys use. I use my aircraft rivet gun, with a chisel that's made for the body type air hammers. The rivet gun has slower but heavier strokes etc...

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Post by Fishgrinder Fri Aug 22, 2014 1:17 am

I just drilled out the rivets.

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Post by 77mali Sun Sep 07, 2014 7:31 pm

Had a battle with the lower C-arm today.  I won Very Happy (wasn't even a close fight).
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MAP Torch got it going good and it sounds like Jiffey Pop when it starts to swell.  I will say that it smells pretty bad- this technique is not for everyone but the bushings slide right out with minimal effort once enough has melted out.  The metal sleeves are a bit harder of course but if you "crush" them in the middle (pneumatic chisel) you can hammer it out without too much fuss.

Got another autozone "Loan-A-Tool".  Use their ball joint kit to remove that as well.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Ball-joint-U-Joint-press-set/_/N-264q?itemIdentifier=557231_0_0_
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Post by Joe73 Sun Sep 07, 2014 7:39 pm

I usually air chisel out the bushings. But I did a set of lower arms using this method. Just hold the arm steady or put it in a vice. Real easy with a 5/16" drill bit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3JfM_gbzkA
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Post by 77mali Sun Sep 07, 2014 9:11 pm

There's lots of ways posted on-line. I like fire. Less labor. Wink
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Post by dynchel Sun Sep 07, 2014 9:23 pm

I've always used the air chisel method myself, but what ever works.  Are you going to get the arms sandblasted?
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Post by pila Sun Sep 07, 2014 10:34 pm

I used the fire method on the last set.......

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Post by ant7377 Sun Sep 07, 2014 10:46 pm

Paul,beans man,beans,thats the key. Eat more=less labor.
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