Re: 1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic Progress Photo's aka Mali

by 77ElClassic Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:06 am

If you do have to pull the tailshaft housing, it might be a good time to do the math and decide if a new speedo gear on the tailshaft is necessary. Especially if the rear diff ratio has been changed. The worm gear on the shaft is an easy swap.

by 77mali Tue Jul 03, 2012 5:42 pm

I think it's all good but will check them & the end-play. The rear end is staying- 3.08.

4 the tips.

by 77ElClassic Tue Jul 03, 2012 9:31 pm

I like the new avatar.

by 77mali Wed Jul 04, 2012 8:40 am

by 77mali Wed Jul 04, 2012 10:16 am

Finally caught a break on something!

1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic Progress Photo's aka Mali - Page 9 P1030621

1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic Progress Photo's aka Mali - Page 9 P1030622

1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic Progress Photo's aka Mali - Page 9 P1030710

by 77ElClassic Thu Jul 05, 2012 7:31 pm

I've never had the good fortune to open one up and find it that clean.

by 77mali Thu Jul 05, 2012 7:51 pm

Yeah- thank goodness, I've about had it with surprises. Some small particles on one segment of the filter which have me wondering where the heck they're coming from (maybe from the bottom of the pan during draining or when it got flipped upside-down)? The fluid was fairly clean at 1st but I had it up on the engine crane like a stuck pig and towards the end the color changed from a normal bright red to a blood/maroon color. The flange on the pan looks decent w/ a small dent near one of the bolt holes and someone tried to patch up around the gasket with RTV Rolling Eyes

. I can't understand that at all, as you need to remove the pan in order to put rtv on it- why not just do it right, clean the surfaces & install a new gasket? Mad

I have to check it for warping but at a quick glance it looks OK.

by pila Fri Jul 06, 2012 12:03 am

You just have to hammer the bolt hole areas of the pan rail, to get it flat again. Some folks glue the gasket to the pan, with weather-strip cement, to allow for the pan rail not being very flat.
The trans looks really clean alright.......

by 77mali Fri Jul 06, 2012 6:25 pm

I have a nice straight piece of I-beam...for just such an occasion, nail sets, and a mapp torch Very Happy

by pila Sat Jul 07, 2012 2:52 am

You really don't need to heat the pan rails to tap them flat. It's just soft sheet steel.

by 77mali Sat Jul 07, 2012 8:26 am

LOL- I was joking about the mapp. It would prob melt the pan. Wink

by 77mali Sat Jul 07, 2012 9:13 pm

Spent some time today restoring the trans pan....

Before anyone says I'm bonkers for spending time to restore a $25.00 pan...it was more for body work practice than saving the pan. Also I got a new filter/gasket kit @ Autozone today- in stock (well they had the 1) and only $7.50! Shocked

Used degreaser and then some 3" 3M disc "scuff pads"...coarse then medium. Then broke out the Dremel and attachments to get all the nooks. Not quite done yet, still small amount of rust & will play with knocking down the dents tomorrow. Also needs some bending in a few spots.

1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic Progress Photo's aka Mali - Page 9 P1030711

1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic Progress Photo's aka Mali - Page 9 P1030711

1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic Progress Photo's aka Mali - Page 9 P1030713

1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic Progress Photo's aka Mali - Page 9 P1030712

by pila Sun Jul 08, 2012 12:14 am

It sure has a bunch of dents & creases in it. Maybe someone had a floor jack under it in the past. Should be easy enough to flatten it out though. Ever think about a drain plug kit for it ? They are simple to install, and make fluid changes a lot less messy. Don't remember where I bought the last one.

by 77mali Sun Jul 08, 2012 8:19 am

A drain plug kit is in the works for sure. I can't imagine why GM didn't have one in these. I bought a new oil pan and might use the drain plug from my old pan on it.

by pila Sun Jul 08, 2012 8:42 am

The early TH350s had a drain plug in them. Then GM got cheap and wanted to save a buck, so they quit putting them in.

by ant7377 Sun Jul 08, 2012 8:56 am

I have a drain plug on my 77 from GM, Looks original too,its handy. Ive never seen another GM pan like that,maybe it was a dealer item.

by 77mali Sun Jul 08, 2012 8:58 am

ant7377 wrote:I have a drain plug on my 77 from GM, Looks original too,its handy. Ive never seen another GM pan like that,maybe it was a dealer item.

You have a 454 though, so you have a THM400, right?

by ant7377 Sun Jul 08, 2012 9:44 am

On my 77 its a th 350

by 77mali Wed Jul 11, 2012 4:15 pm

Well much hammering later....

Used JB Weld Epoxy to "even out" the remaining surface irregularities, sanded, buffed (still not perfect but who cares it's practice), used Duplicolor engine enamel as 1st coat and then coated with rubberized undercoat. Will also recoat with the enamel as the undercoat is paintable. Drain plug was off the shelf at Advanced Auto Parts- a Dorman product- they had a few sizes. Will edit in the part number. I could have sat there and used progressivly finer sand paper to get it dead on but hey- it's just a pan & next time the filter/fluid is changed I think I'll splurge and get this one: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/60180/10002/-1

1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic Progress Photo's aka Mali - Page 9 P1030715

1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic Progress Photo's aka Mali - Page 9 P1030715

by pila Wed Jul 11, 2012 9:26 pm

Don't want to rain on your parade, but the oil pan gets pretty hot, and may do damage to your finish, like the undercoating. You'll just have to see how it holds up, and tell us !! Very Happy

by 77mali Wed Jul 11, 2012 11:09 pm

The engine enamel is rated for 500 degrees...the rubberized coat is now sandwiched between 2 coats of it. We'll see...worst case it flakes off. The rubberized coating is tough to apply evenly...it likes to shoot out like "Silly String" & it looks like Turd

Semi gloss black does not change the color too much either. When I do the rear wheel wells I'm leaning towards a bed liner material & some new spray equipment. Very Happy

by pila Thu Jul 12, 2012 5:04 pm

Someone on another forum mentioned using bed-liner in the wheel wells. He said it was hard to get clean (?) That stuff is really tough from what I've seen though.

by 77mali Thu Jul 12, 2012 5:24 pm

I'd clear coat it, perhaps it might help with dirt particles not being able to accumulate in the nooks of the liner.(?) scratch

LOL- on a side note I'm reading the instructions for the pan gasket and it tells me the ultimate torque for the bolts is 180 INCH Pounds....Translation- 10 ft lbs. Thought that was funny.

by pila Thu Jul 12, 2012 8:37 pm

The new gaskets that are around these days are quite good, when the directions are followed. Getting both surfaces clean and dry seems to be the key. My '92 pick up still has the original rocker ( valve ) cover gaskets, and I've had it apart a few times. They are the blue silicone type.

by 77mali Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:15 pm

That's what I have too for the valve covers. They last forever.

The directions for the trans pan said to put a light coat of grease on the clean deck surface. Gasket is thick in comparison to the one that was on there which was felt. The grease (I used lithium- very lightly applied by thumb) seems to help the gasket stick ever so slightly so as to not move around when fitting the pan on the gasket. The new one is a neoprene type rubber, very dense. I put it on tonight but I'm going to refer to the 77 manual for the torque spec's and sequence. Plan to have that done this weekend and get it out of my way for a while.

Edit: Doesn't look that bad I guess
1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic Progress Photo's aka Mali - Page 9 P1030722

1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic Progress Photo's aka Mali - Page 9 P1030722

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