Paint Failure

by Mcarlo77 Wed Jun 24, 2015 3:34 pm

[url=https://servimg.com/view/15485509/594] Paint Failure Paintf10

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So, this is what I discovered when I removed the car cover from the Laguna this Spring. Was the first time in three winters I've owned the car that it sat outside; albeit, under this car cover. I've never seen anything like this on a car...complete delamination right down to bare metal in spots under the rear window. I just finished removing all the paint along that strip of metal and was struck with a couple observations:

1) The paint blisters were not due to a poor bond when car was repainted by previous owner as the original paint and factory primer are still present on the bottom side of the blistered chip...as well as where I removed the paint that hadn't blistered yet.

2) The metal has the look of galvanized; which I've noticed on a couple other Chevelles/Malibus/Lagunas I've come across. One recent example looks to be on the original Laguna g3chevy is selling .
(http://www.g3gm.com/t9366-my-latest-project-75-laguna#89831)

Is it really possible GM used galvanized in this area? Or, am I just mistaken in thinking it's galvanized? I would think galvanized would create adhesion problems...which may explain why some of these cars are prone to peeling. Can any of you guys who have painted your cars shed some light on this?

by Joe73 Wed Jun 24, 2015 4:48 pm

Looks like there is a bonding issue/poor prep with the new paint.
I never found galvanized panels when I stripoed my 73 to bare metal. If galvanized panels are found they can be treated with phosphoric acid to etch them or a good quality epoxy will do the trick.
What color is the backside of the flaking chips?

by Mcarlo77 Wed Jun 24, 2015 5:33 pm

The backside of the chip is a charcoal gray. On top of that is the original Orange Poly paint. Then, a gray primer or sealer, a thk layer of cream colored primer and fimally, the top coat of orange paint. Chip measures about .025” thk.

Do you think it's possible to take one of those larger chips to an auto paint store to get a matching can of spray paint just to get by until the car can be properly painted?

by Joe73 Wed Jun 24, 2015 6:29 pm

They can definitely match your paint. And yes you can get it in a spray can with activator in the base. Once you activate the can it will be good for about 72 hours.
I have my headlight extension in Michigan right now getting color matched.

Paint Failure Eleiiw

by Mcarlo77 Wed Jun 24, 2015 10:18 pm

Joe...who are you working with in Michigan? And, why not with a local auto paint supplier?

by pila Wed Jun 24, 2015 11:23 pm

I stripped my Malibu down to bare metal, and didn't notice any galvanized look to the metal. You may want to use some self-etching primer on the bare metal when you re-paint...

by Joe73 Thu Jun 25, 2015 6:20 am

Im going with ProSpray brand paint. ProSpray is part of Sikkens. My two local prospray jobbers do not have the formula for my 79 color.nor do they have the camera for color match.
Ive been researching paints for about a year now and found loads of info on spiuserforum.com. The prospray gets real good reviews with its good.coverage and good price. Ive sprayed two of tbeir samples and.it lays out nice and does cover very well.
The price is very reasonable compared to dupont and.ppg products.

As for.clear, it will be spi universal clear (southern polyurethane) and and their epoxy as well. Theres a youtube video of some guy doing extreme tests on their epoxy. Real good stuff with a 7 day topcoat window withoutsanding.
Theres even a gto that sold for.over 6 figures with tbeir clear on it.
Heres the video for tbeir epoxy. Great deal for only $132 a gallon. https://youtu.be/-yA8q4K-_Bo

So the jobber.in Michigan is actually a restoration shop. He was recommended by tbe people on the spi forum. I contacted him and his service is excellent and his prices, even with shipping, are better than my local guy.

by dynchel Thu Jun 25, 2015 6:39 am

Steve, my '74 has the same galvanized lower window panel that you speak of. I once read somewhere (in original literature) that they did this to help the window channel from rotting out.

by bracketchev1221 Thu Jun 25, 2015 9:37 am

Well I can say my 76 isn't back there. Its rotted like swiss cheese!!!!!!

by Joe73 Thu Jun 25, 2015 10:07 am

I would sand down that area, spray it with some 2k (not 1k) epoxy primer and then shoot it with paint. And if its metallic you will have to shoot it with clear on top of that.

by dynchel Thu Jun 25, 2015 1:01 pm

Paint Failure IMG_20150625_065821_zps5pj8hnqs

Here it is, from the original 1974 dealer brochure. "Non corrosive rear panel"

by Wallyuph Thu Jun 25, 2015 1:32 pm

Steve mine was Galvanized metal also. I buzzed it down metal prepped it with PHIX http://www.ppcbest.com/phix_treatment.htm
I did all the bare metal with Phix first. I have some here if you want to use it.

Welle auto is just south on Central and 694. https://www.welleauto.com/
They can mix up any paint in any color and put it in a spray can for you. They also have the two part clear in a spray can also. https://www.welleauto.com/index.php/online-shopping#!/SprayMax%C2%AE-2K-Glamour-High-Gloss-Aerosol-Clear/p/51331414

I would remove that rear window trim and see whats going on under there. I would bet its rusting and water worked its way under original paint then it froze and popped the paint off.

by Mcarlo77 Thu Jun 25, 2015 6:18 pm

All good info...and, suggestions. Have much to learn regarding proper paint prep/painting.

For now though, think I'll take your suggestion Wally and pick up a spray can of matching paint & clear at Welle Auto to get me by until I can dedicate my time/expense to a complete body repaint. My plans this summer were to concentrate on the interior and I want to stay the course.

by Keith Seymore Fri Jun 26, 2015 8:31 am

Joe73 wrote:
So the jobber.in Michigan is actually a restoration shop. He was recommended by tbe people on the spi forum. I contacted him and his service is excellent and his prices, even with shipping, are better than my local guy.

Whereabouts in Michigan?

Are they loading the paint into aerosol spray cans, or will you be spraying with a gun?

Thanks,

K

by Joe73 Fri Jun 26, 2015 9:14 am

This is the company. http://www.autorodtechnologies.com/ Owners name is Chad. Chad and Kate are awesome to deal with. They are located in New Troy, Mi.

No spray cans. This is for a complete job. I got alot of grief from my buddies about reshooting the car since it still looks great. But its going to bare metal for a second time.

Just got my 1/2 pint of color match paint yesterday. Shot it on a test panel and it looks real close. I'm not going for an exact match of what I have just as long as its close. Shot it through my new touch up gun and it laid nicely. Coverage was great with three light coats and 10-15 minute flash. I cleared it with some VHT high temp clear (spray can) I had laying around just to get the finished effect. I really like this ProSpray stuff.

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