ecu???

no he is buying mine for $110 shipped to him and its $60 bucks for the electric choke option to add it to the carb


thats where i get the 150 bucks total for the carb

u can run without a choke, if so desired. just needs a few mins to warm, like he said.i run a q-jet without one an within a couple of min idles fine. smog heads are smog heads. headwork is where you will make REAL power down the road. takes $$$$$$ is all. as far as gears,3.73 is really the limit on street cars. i run 3.42s with a 28 in tall tire. 65 mph is 2600,2700 rpms.i also have a 2800 tight stall converter. not too bad, considering.

even if you don't "need" it, a properly functioning choke will make the car start and run almost as easily and smoothly as any fuel injected car. in fact, it will start quicker than most efi cars.
1 quick pump of the gas to set the choke and squirt a little fuel into the intake, and it should start right up as soon as you tap the key. then, once it's running, you can put it in gear and drive normally almost right away.
try that without a choke.

on a side note ..................


hey moneypit you like the new avatar for you???

yeppers, i do!! pretty snazzy!! to respond,its true, you cant just start an drive with no choke. im saying you dont need it for the car to run. if its a money thing. mines heavyily moddied, an is a weekend toy, not a DD. properly tuned, you can get good milage outta one. mine on the other hand, no dice. it set for all or nothing. no vaccum secondaries any more. fuel demand dictates when the four barrels open now. HORRIBLE gas mileage, but its a blast to drive!!

You can if you have a ProCharger .... Believe it or not, I start it up and go with no problem, and I knocked down an average of 16.5 MPG over the entire Power Tour.

A warning: Your car will never go as fast as you want it to go, or as fast as you hope it will go. It will turn into an endless struggle to dig deeper and deeper and you will become addicted. That's not necessarilly a bad thing, but you have to know you are starting with a very heavy car.

Step one: Bolt on goodies. These goodies will come cheap and will help overall, but may not fit the grand "parts matching" scheme of later modifications.

Step Two: The bolt on goodies don't quite do what you expected to your seat-of-pants meter, so you look closely at the general health of the motor and find it's time for rings and bearings.

Step 3: consider leaving the worn internals and going for Nitrous and a gear set rather than a rebuild. You wisely pull the motor apart for a refresh and think... why not an overbore? And while the heads are off, why not a valve job and a deck to bump some flow and compression. And of course, while you are in there, poly motor/trans mounts and body bushings are usually a good investment. But that's all money.

Step 4: The trans is sitting on the floor while the motor is being worked on and it's decision time... A shift kit and fresh pump, clutches and overhaul? What about a converter? Well, for the converter, you have to think ahead... How much will the car weight? How much power will you be making? How much slippage can you accomodate with your gearset?

Step 5: Put it all back in.

Step 6: Now that you are broke, but are making power, you break the motor in right and take it out for it's first full throttle whomp. Well, if you don't have a locker or spool, then it's time. If you do, You will probably break the 25 year old 10-bolt in half.

Step 7: Do the rear, and add some tire.

Step 8: Wow... it's still slow.

Step 9: Realize that you need to use what you have more effectively. If you want to beat your import buddies you need to use the heft of your car as an advantage.

Step 10: As soon as you and your buddies leave the line... steer your boat toward them like a madman. They will skimper away and effectively give you the race.

ROTFL>>>>LMAO!!!!

At first I thought you were being serious, since most of what you said happens to all of us, but when I read your last few steps, I lost it. Jonny O is a funny man.

These cars are heavy, but they can be made to run. I doubt an import should be something to worry about unless its coming from Mitsubishi or some Toyotas. Even the Subaru WRX isn't really that quick unless it's an STI. Most sport compact cars don't have enough balls to get into the 14s when modded, which is easily achieved in a G3 unless you're dealing with a 305.

I gotta way to be fast. Surely SOMEONE remembers that thread about the 801 c.i. big block! It that doesn't make you fast, you're a liar!

should i get a bigger air filter?? if not for performance and efficiancy, for just looks?



oh and feel free to post any comment suggestions or issues you see

First off..... holy crap! You already got the carb shipped & installed?

Second, that looks like a 10" round filter with about 2" height. If I'm correct, toss it. A quick way to tell how bad it's hurting you is the lead foot test. Go out & just punch the gas to the floor. Now take your filter off & do the same thing. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. If you noticed that the car wants to lay rubber without the filter, but tries to bog with the filter on, it's time to upgrade.

I always use a 14" x 3" K&N filter. I used one of those Edelbrock triangle shaped filters once, but a backfire melted it!

hahaha no i havent recieved the new carb yet thats what im working with now tho. how big can i go with a stock hood tho?

OK. So what's wrong with the Edelbrock carb that you got now? I might take it off your hands depending on what you got.

Not sure exactly how big you can go, but I have a 14" x 3" filter under a stock hood on a stock engine. I'm sure that with a dropped base you could go taller if that's what you're after. Problem with a dropped base is that they sometimes interfere with throttle brackets & other parts. Also your height limit will be determined by what intake you have. A Performer intake will allow more than a Performer RPM, which will allow more than a Victor. If you absolutely have to have the tallest filter possible, it's just a trial & error thing.

14 inch wide and may up to 4.5 to 5 inch tall. depends on your air cleaner assembly. oh, and clean up all the dirt dammitt!!

haha yes sir! but yea i have a performer rpm intake so i'll check out some new filters.

there's nothing "wrong" with my current carb just too small for what i need it for. its a 1406 edelbrock 600cfm electric choke carb

and what are you getting? a 650 right?

yea like i said a 750 eddie from limey (good guy)

14x4 k&n never used air filter for $75? sounds cool to me. what do you guys think

Put a loosely balled-up wad of aluminum foil on top of your current air filter and close the hood. That's how much room you have left.

And honestly, right now, a 750 is probably going to hurt more than help unless you have some other thing planned around the corner. Had anybody that knows tuning a smallblobk take a look/listen? You are probably leaving hp on the table if that thing isn't timed and jetted right.

MallyMal S-3 wrote:yea like i said a 750 eddie from limey (good guy)

14x4 k&n never used air filter for $75? sounds cool to me. what do you guys think

Sounds too expensive.

Here's one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/K-N-AIR-FILTER-E-3750-14-OD-12-ID-4-HEIGHT-NEW_W0QQitemZ220343811830QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item334d83bef6&_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116

Here's another:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KNN-E-3750/

Honestly, the knock off oiled filters work just as good if you're on a budget & no one but you will ever know the difference:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/K-N-STYLE-AIR-CLEANER-14-WITH-14-x-4-WASHABLE-FILTER_W0QQitemZ230357465835QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item35a25ffaeb&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A1|39%3A1

Or this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-239144/

I can agree to a point about the 750cfm not helping any over the 600cfm right now. The only saving point is the fact that you got a 400. You're going to lose throttle response & gas mileage, but you might gain some top end. The good news is that when you do tear into the motor & start upgrading parts, the 750 will shine over the 600.

Also I just realized you were going to buy an electric choke for that 750. Save your money & use the one from the 600. It should fit no problem.

wow really? mmm well when will the 750 actually help. i plan on installing new gears most likely either 3.42 or 3.55 then headers pretty soon. well damn that is not what i wanted to hear lol but maybe ill just keep teh 600 until ive upgraded further

Bump up the compression & add a bigger cam. That's when you're likely to notice a difference with the 750. Unfortunately increasing compression means tearing into the motor which will cost some money. The 750 can probably sit on a shelf for a while.

Headers & gears should make a night & day difference in your car. Go with 3.42-3.73 gears depending on how much strip time you want to see. If you think it's winding out too much on the highway, add an OD transmission.

I would say that carb will probably work until you do heads and a cam.
By the numbers, the old school philosophies (which I believe in) say you don't need a 750 on a 400 until you start winding the thing up past where your stock rotating assembly can handle.

Here's my opinion on how to spend your 500:
Headers, a cheapie (big bigger) air filter, a cooler thermostat, a timing gun, a book on how to tune your carb, a 6-pack for you buddy with a leakdown tester, spark plugs, wires, msd guts cap and rotor, a cheap set of 1.62 ratio steel roller rockers and the matching pushrods to go with them. Then save the rest for gears.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G9001/

these are cheap but someone suggested summit parts

Again, keep an eye out on:

Craigslist
Ebay
RacingJunk

Don't waste your time buying new off brand stuff when you can get used Hookers for the same price or less. Summit does have SOME good stuff, but you gotta know what to look for. All Summit products are just re-badged stuff made by other brands. I don't know what brand those headers are, but some header brands aren't really that good (Flowtech, Pacesetter). Either they don't fit properly or the welds need redone. I stick with Hooker on Headers.

unless that motor is failry stout, you don't need any more airflow than that 600 will allow.. in fact, you will probably have less than 500cfm of airflow at full power.
hate to say it, but the 750 is just wasted time and money.
tune what you've got- get yourself some basic tools like a timing light, distributor wrench, and vacuum gauge and learn how to use them.
as for the air cleaner- the one you have will flow enough to keep up with your engine, but if you want better looks get a 14" drop base air cleaner base and lid and a 14X4 Wix air filter. it will look something like this:

or, better yet, get a stock air cleaner base and make it into a dual snorkel ram air setup by adding a second snorkel and running some ductwork to the front of the car, which will look something like this:

this is good for gas mileage and breathes plenty of air for all but the most impressive big blocks.
i'm working on a way to get rid of the dryer duct and run oem style black tubing to ducts mounted in the inner fenderwells to make it look almost stockish.