ecu???

by MallyMal S-3 Thu Jul 16, 2009 12:33 pm

1st: does your car have to be FI to have an ecu?
2nd: if an ecu measures how much air is coming in and regulates the amount of fuel to use doesnt it replace the use of a carb? Suspect

thanks

by The Dude Thu Jul 16, 2009 4:04 pm

1. No. Beginning in the early 80's Quadrajets became computer controlled.

2. CCC Q-jets had special metering rods that were controlled by the computer. The computer on FI engines pretty much tells it when to fire & when to squirt fuel from the injectors based on sensors placed in or on the engine & transmission. Fuel is still regulated from a fuel pressure regulator just like it was in carb'd vehicles.

Don't worry, our cars are too old to have a computer. Everything is pretty much vacuum operated on our motors.

by MallyMal S-3 Thu Jul 16, 2009 5:23 pm

ok i just super failed there so.......

im on a budget, financially and in terms of know how and experience. say i have $500 at the moment and am tired of all my friends' jdm and euro cars whizzing by me. everyone says headers but those are out of my range for the time being. other ppl say new cam but aren't there other aspects that have to change along with a new cam?

by novaderrik Thu Jul 16, 2009 5:50 pm

hey.. i think i just answered this same question on Chevelles.com, so i'll skip the ecu question..
$500 aint gonna take your stock boat and make it faster than even most stock imports. you might be able to get deeper gears or an intake and carb to put on it for that much..
unless, of course, you get a nitrous setup and run it on the ragged edge- but that will shortly lead to more than $500 being sunk into a new motor.

by The Dude Thu Jul 16, 2009 6:16 pm

3 places have just become your best friend (besides here, lol).

1. Craigslist
2. Ebay
3. RacingJunk

With only $500, don't buy new unless its gaskets. For $500, you could easily get headers & full exhaust. Do you have a 2 or 4 barrel carb? What size motor? First get a good tune up & check your compression. No use throwing money at an engine that isn't up to par. A good tune up should run close to $100. Go buy this book: http://www.amazon.com/Build-Performance-Blocks-Budget-Design/dp/1884089348/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1247781276&sr=8-2
It will be the best $25 you can spend at this point. Buy yourself a Dremel while you're at it & learn how to port stuff. Porting your heads, intake & exhaust manifolds might not get you maximum performance, but it will certainly help. Since you live in Cali, things are more complicated Sad

Definitely replace the factory cat with a high flow unit. Probably $50-$100. IDK cause I live in a state that doesn't care if you cut it out. Very Happy

Assuming 2bbl, buy a carb & intake from the places listed. Carbs go for $50-$125 max. Intakes are cheap, I just scored a Holley 300-36 intake for $45 shipped. If you have a 4bbl, don't worry about the carb or intake yet.

Headers should cost around $50-$75.

If you have any cash left, buy a cheap cam & lifter set. Should cost $90 for the Summit brand. This should be last on your list & keep it mild since your compression is probably 8.5:1 or worse.

by MallyMal S-3 Thu Jul 16, 2009 6:47 pm

ive got a 2 bbl 6.6L 400cu. book is being shipped. thanks. you havent seen the last

by The Dude Thu Jul 16, 2009 7:13 pm

MallyMal S-3 wrote:ive got a 2 bbl 6.6L 400cu. book is being shipped. thanks. you havent seen the last

6.6L??? Pfff, that's import speak. You got a 400 small block. Good news, because you got a 50 cu. in. lead over most small blocks. Junk that 2bbl for a Q-jet or 750cfm Edelbrock. I'd still get the exhaust taken care of first though.

Glad to hear you bought the book. Vizard is the man when it comes to SBC. So was Smokey Yunick if you can find his book cheaper than this: http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunicks-Power-Secrets-Yunick/dp/0931472067/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1247785340&sr=8-3
I've read a few small block Chevy books & these 2 are the most enjoyable so far.

Cool thing about the book you just bought is the cheap engine combos at the back of the book. It really helps you get an understanding of what can be accomplished with some patience & a grinder. One complete engine was built for like $600 if I remember correctly. That book stays near my thinking stool. Laughing

by Limey SE Thu Jul 16, 2009 8:49 pm

750 edelbrock on my bench for sale BTW

let me know if intrested MallyMal

by novaderrik Thu Jul 16, 2009 10:12 pm

i've got a Weiand 8004 intake for sale.

by MallyMal S-3 Thu Jul 16, 2009 11:21 pm

ive got a performer rpm intake and as far as exhaust im catless and straight piped with only mufflers and tips

by The Dude Fri Jul 17, 2009 12:05 am

I thought you said you had a 2bbl & doesn't Cali inspect for cats? In that case, for $500 go buy some cheap headers from one of the places I mentioned. Then go buy a small cam & lifter set with about 220 deg duration @ .050. Normally I'd recommend something smaller with low compression, but a larger displacement engine like the 400 can eat up some of that cam. Take the money left over & buy some roller rockers & a timing chain set/gear drive. That should be enough to hold you over for awhile & still keep a couple bills in your pockets.

by IndyG3 Fri Jul 17, 2009 1:45 am

I think if you're looking at going faster you could try starting by changing the gearing in your axle and a cam and intake upgade. With a taller gear, you'll accelerate faster, and hopefully a little extra power will get you going faster than a Civic or whatever tuners are driving anymore. Headers do help, but on a relatively stock motor, the power gains aren't as good as spending money on the cam, intake, and heads. However, it's also a good idea to get rid of all the emissions crap, so maybe headers would be a good start for whatever you're doing in the future.
I think I just contradicted myself there. I don't know, I'm really tired....

by The Dude Fri Jul 17, 2009 10:22 am

Yeah Indy, I think you might have confused him, but you didn't contradict yourself. Let me try to word it different.

Headers are one of the most important power adders for your car, BUT on a stock motor you're not likely to feel the 5-10 hp difference it makes. They come in handy when you have added the cam, intake, & other power adders. That's when they can make upwards of 40 hp over manifolds. Why add headers now instead of later? Go jog while breathing through a straw & tell me how you feel afterwords.

I almost agree with the gearing statement unless this is a daily driven ride. Drop lower gears in & get worse gas mileage. Sad

Let's not forget the lack of car knowledge which means paying to have someone install on top of the $300 for gears & an installation kit.

by MallyMal S-3 Fri Jul 17, 2009 11:07 am

yea well in cali my car is exempt because its over 30 yrs old so i dont have to have a cat or any of that cheers

so we can still take the road we were planning before all the gear talk?

i know it may be a little frustrating working with someone so ignorant and unexperienced so thanks once again. i really just wanna learn and eventually be able to help other ppl out. pass down the knowledge you know.

ps. i said that correctly right? if my pipes come straight from my headers to the rear only passing through mufflers

by The Dude Fri Jul 17, 2009 11:48 am

Man, don't worry about being a NOOb. We all gotta start somewhere. I started out when my dad passed down his collection of Hot Rod mags from 74 on up. Then I helped him build a couple of motors. My Junior year of HS I really got hands on with my second Chevelle & also got into VoTech for automotive. After High School I went to Spartan School of Aeronautics. Since then I haven't done crap with any of the knowledge except build a couple of cars & give out advice if I can. I'm still learning as I've never tore down an automatic transmission & only done a couple rear ends. That is what I want to master next.

Technically straight pipes are a redneck term for when they have pipes running from the headers back with no mufflers at all. Usually they also have larger "Echo Chambers" or "Megaphones" which are actually exhaust tips that are larger than the exhaust piping to create an even louder noise. Here's an example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xse7sfZM2Ck

Good news about being exempt, that makes things cheaper & easier! Just follow some of the suggestions stated above. BTW, I watched your video. You got a clean ride from what I saw, but you must be rich living in a neighborhood like that though. lol!

by MallyMal S-3 Fri Jul 17, 2009 11:54 am

hahaha are you kidding me. thats all the camera man. i wish i lived up there. his parties are the best

but thanks lol thats my baby so far. so what do i call my exhaust setup and i think my tips are larger also

by MallyMal S-3 Fri Jul 17, 2009 12:17 pm

i wish my dad was as into cars as i am. super lucky, but thats cool you've got so much experience and can do so much and even yet are still hungry for more. i admire that

ugh double post

by moneypit73 Fri Jul 17, 2009 1:27 pm

first, put a four barrel carb and a decent intake, performer is good. get a good 600,650 carb. yea, its a 400, BUT its a smog motor. crap heads. loose all smog crap, run some duals and put a gear in it. that should take your e.t.s from sub 17s to high 15s right there. anymore, an you gotta crack the motor open. THEN sky,s the limit!!

by MallyMal S-3 Fri Jul 17, 2009 4:03 pm

i am getting a four barrel 750 eddie carb with a manual choke. ive got a performer rpm intake, duals, and next to no smog crap. need some heads and an electric choke carb.

by The Dude Fri Jul 17, 2009 4:31 pm

Pop off your valve cover & read the number on the head. Doesn't matter which head, they should be the same. Post what casting you have & I'll let you know what you got. You might luck out & not need to swap heads at the moment. If you swap heads, they will need steam holes machined since you have a 400. This is a MUST DO THING!

by novaderrik Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:03 pm

have you actually verified that it is still the stock 400 in the car? a 350 or 305 or 283 or 267 look pretty much the same...

by Limey SE Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:11 pm

MallyMal S-3 wrote:i am getting a four barrel 750 eddie carb with a manual choke. ive got a performer rpm intake, duals, and next to no smog crap. need some heads and an electric choke carb.

for the price you are getting the carb from me................. JEGS racing sell the adapter for the electirc choke let me get the part number/price for you

by Limey SE Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:22 pm

part number is #350-1478

price is $51.99 + $11.95 handling fee (bogus)

summit racing is part number edl-1478

price is $51.95 + $9.95 shipping fee (bogus)

ecu??? Edl-1478_w

so for under 150 bucks in parts you can have a new electric choke carb a good deal ......

by MallyMal S-3 Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:48 pm

im not trying to be cheap just curious cause i read something on another forum, but if i just get the manual choke and intend on leaving it open would i still need to connect the cable and what not??

by 74Malibu383 Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:51 pm

Get one with no choke, and spend 5 minutes warming it up in the morning. That's cheaper than $150.00. I don't have a choke on mine, and it does just fine.

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