what headers and why?

by MallyMal S-3 Mon Jul 13, 2009 5:12 pm

what size engine do you have, what do you use your car for, and what headers did/would you choose and why??

by JB2wheeler Mon Jul 13, 2009 5:49 pm

I have a 540 cube Dart Big M in my 74 Elky and just use it occasionally, I wanted Hedman Elite headers, but was talked into Hooker. My speed shop evidently makes more profit on them. I have no complaints aginst these headers. After the headers were put on I was taking a little ride and the factory protective covering on the steering shaft caught on fire. I did not put off buying my fire wxtengisher after that. JB

by The Dude Tue Jul 14, 2009 11:16 am

Currently I have these engines........ 455, 350, 305, 1.3L, 1.6L, 2.2L, & a 3.0L. lol!

I'm guessing you just want to know about the Chevelles though. My 76 just has a stock 305 for a couple more months. I do have some ceramic coated Hookers going into it though. My 73 has like 1/2 of a 350 until someone brings down the rest of it (cough). I plan on dropping a 383 in it unless I find a 400 small block in decent condition.

I prefer Hookers, & I also like Hooker Headers..... lol.. couldn't help myself! I have heard some decent things about Hedman from others & wouldn't mind trying out the Torq Step, but for now I'm gonna stick with what I know works. BTW, if you can afford it, get Ceramic coated headers. They last longer, keep your engine bay cooler, & keep their looks longer. I still don't know if they really help with horsepower or if that's a cyber tale, but all of the other perks make it worthwhile. Also when you install your headers, use something to lock the bolts in place or prepare to re tighten them constantly.

by 74Malibu383 Tue Jul 14, 2009 11:30 am

I used to have a cheapo set of Headman headers on my 350, but now have a set of Hooker Super Comp headers that are Jet Hot Coated for the 383. The Headman Headers were ok, but the Super Comp ones fit much better. They are tighter going through the engine compartment and don't hang down AT ALL. This of course was a big concern after lowering the car.

I still have the Headman headers if anyone is interested.

Keep in mind that if you are running a stock power steering setup you'll need to modify the bracket that originally bolted to the exhaust manifold.

by The Dude Tue Jul 14, 2009 11:52 am

Good point, also the last set I put on a G3 I had to disconnect some supports under the car. Maybe someone knows the name of these small bars. One side fit back on, but the other I had to take off because it wouldn't fit. I agree with the tight fit of Hookers, I love em & that's why I run them. I have ground off the bottom collector bolt on a pair before though. Expect dragging to occur more frequently with any header. One good thing is that they will install from underneath without removing the engine. They are a tight fit but I did my first pair in a driveway with just some ramps in about 4 hours back when I was 17. Not too hard of a job if you have a sawzall to cut off the old exhaust.

by 74Malibu383 Tue Jul 14, 2009 11:59 am

Oh, I threw those supports away a long time ago. If I remember correctly the passenger side fit with the Headman's but not the driver side. When I went to the Super Comps, neither side fit. I really don't see the structural use for those little bars.

As for the collectors hitting, it's an easy thing to fix. Just take your sawzall or hacksaw and cut them off as close to the connector as you can. Then take a exhaust band clamp and clamp the header to the exhaust pipe. It will save you a good inch in ground clearance.

by BlackChevelleSS Tue Jul 14, 2009 12:07 pm

454 running Hooker Comps. Fit great but are close to the ground. My 70 whacks them all the time.

by MallyMal S-3 Tue Jul 14, 2009 1:33 pm

on a scale from 1-10, 1- being the hardest, how difficult of a removal and installation are headers???

by 74Malibu383 Tue Jul 14, 2009 1:43 pm

I did it by myself when I was 16 after a quote from my dad.
"What's that big box? Headers? That's a YOU project. There are WE projects and YOU projects. This one is all YOU. "

Headers are great, but always make everything a little more difficult. I wouldn't ever have a car without them though. Just remember to take your time, you'll be fine.

by The Dude Tue Jul 14, 2009 1:50 pm

I don't know how to rate it because it could be a 2 or 10 depending on your patience, tools, & how you go about it.

Sometimes the engine needs lifted, sometimes not. Like I said earlier, my first install into a G3 was when I was 17 years old. I simply drove the car onto ramps & blocked the rear wheels. Then I went to work with a sawzall on the old exhaust. Factory cats are heavier than they look so be careful! Once the old exhaust is off, remove the old exhaust manifolds. Now is the time when you will notice the bars I mentioned. Remove them. You should be able to wiggle the headers into place from underneath at this point. Don't try to go from the top since it's useless. Work slowly & when it looks like it won't fit or you get stuck, take a break & think about it for a couple of minutes. They'll go in if you follow this guideline. Once you have them slipped in place, go up top & bolt them in.

The only #1 rule I have is to soak everything in PBlaster at least 12 hours prior to starting the job. That way no bolts get broke off, especially in the heads!

by MallyMal S-3 Tue Jul 14, 2009 2:18 pm

ok we'll see how it goes. i'll return if i have more questions...scratch that i WILL return Laughing

by Limey SE Tue Jul 14, 2009 2:37 pm

74Malibu383 wrote:I still have the Headman headers if anyone is interested.

ok i will bite pics,price and condition and a shipped price to 61010

by 74Malibu383 Tue Jul 14, 2009 2:39 pm

I'll take some detailed photos soon (they are at my parents' place). I'd let em go for $50 OBO plus shipping. I'll get that info soon as well.

by 1973 454 MONTE Tue Jul 14, 2009 10:34 pm

454,hedman shorty's.
what headers and why? Hders10

I did not want the long tube headers to bump the ground.

Besides they look much better than the stock air-tube manifolds. Very Happy

by Roadcaptain S3 Thu Jan 07, 2010 12:04 pm

Draggin this one back out from a couple months ago--

Summit has a set of ceramics for $180, look like they would fit my 350 crate pretty tight.
Anybody know who actually makes them?
I know a lot of summit brand stuff is made by big names for them.

by coreys73chevelle Thu Jan 07, 2010 5:23 pm

MallyMal S-3 wrote:on a scale from 1-10, 1- being the hardest, how difficult of a removal and installation are headers???

all you really need to worry about is the gasket and be carefull with it. also dont over torque the bolts 22-25 pounds is all they need and i like to start them all tight slowly and torque them from the middle out, dont go cheap on gaskets and if you get painted headers when you start the car they will burn some of the excess paint off so the smoke is normal off them

by coreys73chevelle Thu Jan 07, 2010 5:25 pm

i have headman shorty painted headers on my 355 but im going to get some coated long tubes later on.

by ant7377 Thu Jan 07, 2010 6:32 pm

Ive got coated dynomax .The stupid #5 pipe gets in the way of the sparkplug but they go in easy just have to use a shorty plug for # 5

by 1973chevelle Sun Jan 10, 2010 3:20 pm

I have a 350 C.I. and i have Flowtech headders, cheapies from autozone, like $99 i use my car for some carshows, and when i get my license in Feb it will be my daily driver, to school and work!, and does any other chevelle ppl have problems with thier headders scraping the ground when they hit a dip in the road?

by The Dude Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:32 am

1973chevelle wrote:......and does any other chevelle ppl have problems with thier headders scraping the ground when they hit a dip in the road?

Most of us do. Here's a solution:

74Malibu383 wrote:As for the collectors hitting, it's an easy thing to fix. Just take your sawzall or hacksaw and cut them off as close to the connector as you can. Then take a exhaust band clamp and clamp the header to the exhaust pipe. It will save you a good inch in ground clearance.

by 74Malibu383 Mon Jan 11, 2010 1:23 pm

As with most things, you get what you pay for. My first set of headers were the el cheapo versions too. I'm sure they worked just as well as my Hooker Supercomps do, but the Hookers fit so much better. They don't hang down, and I didn't have to use the band clamp trick even though the car is much lower than it was with the cheapos.

by BlackChevelleSS Mon Jan 11, 2010 8:57 pm

IM using hooker comps. My collector flange is not the problem its the front tubes thats the problem with hitting the ground.
But im using a big block on my 70. The engine sits much lower in the 70 than it does in the 73,
They both have really low front suspension and the 73 rarely hits it headers.

by bigredlaguna Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:15 am

BlackChevelleSS wrote:IM using hooker comps. My collector flange is not the problem its the front tubes thats the problem with hitting the ground.
But im using a big block on my 70. The engine sits much lower in the 70 than it does in the 73,
They both have really low front suspension and the 73 rarely hits it headers.

This is the problem I had with the 74 I used to own. Stock suspension with 245/60-15 on 8.5 wide rims on the front. The bottom tubes ended up being a half moon shape.

However it usually took a severe dip that i forgot about (residential neighborhood @ 25-30 mph) or a bump that would send me airborne enough (not quite "Dukes of Hazzard" style) to get close to bottoming out upon landing to get that result.

by BlackChevelleSS Tue Jan 12, 2010 3:09 am

Yea we run the same size front and rear tires on the 70 and 73 225/60/15 front and 275/60/15 rear

by 1973chevelle Sat Jan 16, 2010 2:17 am

its not the collectors that r hitting, its the bottom of the tubes b4 it gets to the collector, i got a solution get a job and get some bigger wheels, thats coming soon!

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