Got some questions for a 350

by thepossumface Tue May 28, 2013 9:39 pm

okay so I may put the hold on a Big block for a while, as I cant seem to find anything good around me so ill just build up my 350 play with it and wait to buy a brand new block and all that.
But anyways I would like to go with the stroker kit, and I see some people are saying use one out of a 400SBC?
A friend is telling me I wont have to get it bored over, but Im pretty sure it will. Any advice? I am looking for a set of vortec heads but im still dont wanna get another intake,
Any help would help me out alot for this motor build. I am starting body work in july so I would like to have this done in a month and i know its possible haha.

by thepossumface Tue May 28, 2013 9:40 pm

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-935050/overview/
i was looking on summit which is prob were ill be buying most of my stuff from

by pila Tue May 28, 2013 10:31 pm

If you mean a stroker using a 350 block, the 400 crank will not fit. It has larger main bearing journals than the other small blocks. Eagle and Scat kits are the way to go for the 383 types theses days. Stock bore will be like 377 cubic inches, and +030 over-bore will be the popular 383, which seems to be a great combo.

by thatfnthing Tue May 28, 2013 10:31 pm

thepossumface wrote:But anyways I would like to go with the stroker kit, and I see some people are saying use one out of a 400SBC?
A friend is telling me I wont have to get it bored over, but Im pretty sure it will.

This is the typical stroker method for a SBC. You don't have to bore it over, but you can. With standard bore you get 377ci, 030 over gets you 383ci, and 060 over gets you 388ci. A stock 350 block will work, but you will need to clearance the sides of the block where the rods will contact it. Since the 400 is externally balanced, you will need either an aftermarket internally balanced crank or you will have to keep the balancer and flexplate from the 400. A 383 will be a torque monster, but don't take it over 6000rpm.

by pila Tue May 28, 2013 10:36 pm

Yeah, good advice about keeping it under 6000 RPM. I used to run my 400 up to 7000, and didn't think much about it until I rebuilt it again...cracked crank and harmonic balancer...... silent

by driveit Wed May 29, 2013 7:23 am

I have always wanted a 383 stroker in my car. Thats what I plan to buy if the funds ever land in my lap. Dream dream dream.

by bracketchev1221 Wed May 29, 2013 7:27 am

A 383 is a safe basic combination these days. An aftermarket crank from Scat or Eagle is a good idea. By the time you get a 400 crank and do all the work to it, it will cost way more. Both scat and Eagle make an internally balanced crank, so you can reuse your balancer and flexplate if they are in good shape. The block may need clearancing along the pan rail, some may not, but it has to be checked. You need at least .060" between parts. If you want to by a complete kit with the pistons rods and crank, you can do that as well. I do not buy the balanced setup, I will pick my own parts and have them balanced at the machine shop. But reallistically, you can build a 450 hp 383 and do it relilably. I don't know if this is a temporary idea, and you really want a big block. I built the 355 in the Nova like this:

Eagle forged crank
Scat 7/16 rod bolt I beam rods
SRP 2 valve relief pistons
Lunati 60112 .535/.550 231/239@.050 Hydraulic roller cam
AFR 195 heads 2.05/1.60 valves
Harland Sharp roller rockers
Morel lifters
Edelbrock performer RPM intake
750 holley.

It works out to be about 10.3-1 compression and runs great on 93. The cam vacuum works the power brakes and with a 383 would be even better. Mine has never been to the track, but similar setups can easily run mid 12's. It is a stick car, so I idle it at about 850-900. If you stick with a cast crank and are looking for rpm, I would go with a lighter weight piston like an SRP or Wiseco. But otherwise a Speed Pro piston is a good choice.

by thatfnthing Wed May 29, 2013 9:29 am

bracketchev1221 wrote:A 383 is a safe basic combination these days.

I had mine built 20 years ago when it was brand new concept. I kept getting "383? Why you wanna stick in a Chrysler motor?"

Now everybody's got one. Smile

by bracketchev1221 Wed May 29, 2013 9:42 am

Right, and I was told when I did my 355 that I should build a 383. I probably should have, but my engine was the numbers matching 350 for the Nova. So being that it was a 10.25-1 compression engine from the factory, I built it as a 10.3-1 compression 355 with much better parts. So the numbers are still in the deck, and I felt if I "wanted" to I could put a L-48 replacment cam in it and the stock heads, which are in the basement and consider it a stock engine. Though in hindsight, it is probably not something I myself would ever do. Everyone told me, build a 383 and no one will know. My friend at the machine shop I worked at and that did the machine work on the 350, showed me a 383 that they were doing for a 327 66 Nova. It was externally stock appearing as a 327. But it was a 383 with hydraulic roller. I think back that I could have built a 383, made another 30 hp easily, and gone with the next larger cam. But then I think, for what? The car runs great as it is. The car will never see the track. It blows the tires off on a roll now. The 383 would have cost about the same, maybe a touch more for blockwork, and been 11-1 compression.
Here's my little 355.
Got some questions for a 350 DSC01603

by driveit Wed May 29, 2013 11:09 am

Mine looked that good at one time, maybe it will again soon!

by thepossumface Wed May 29, 2013 3:21 pm

thats a good looking motor, but I would like to actually build a 350 and also build a big block and compare the difference, cause changing motors isnt that hard in this old car just a few wires and its out.
But im not sure if my funds would allow me to do this unless I find a realllly good deal on a nice big block motor, that has everything to hook up and go for under 700 ( i know it may not happen)

by ant7377 Wed May 29, 2013 9:34 pm

Listen to these guys and go with a 383. You will be happy you did. Hell go with a 406 ,you are gonna need a 400 though.

by thepossumface Wed May 29, 2013 9:40 pm

Yeah im still dont know what to do haha, hopefully in the next 2 weekends we can clean out the shed and start tearing the car apart minus the engine, but I wanna get some rust fixed and maybe rewire the car to a new 12v painless wire harness. or something like that cause all my wire in the car are gone to sh**.
But get me if I am wrong, a SBC 400 would push more tq/ hp than a 350 if I swap out for a newer better crank,intake,carb,headers (maybe I can use my 350 ones??) Ive thought about the 400 swap It sounds like its my range

by ant7377 Wed May 29, 2013 9:47 pm

You have to find a good 400 core to build the 406. When you are going to do it all anyhow you'll be happier with it all, and more value for the dollar if you go with a 383. The headers will work on any small block so yes they will be fine on a 400. As far as making more power,the heads will make a huge difference. Save up and get a good set. Mid 70's small block heads arent too good.

by thatfnthing Wed May 29, 2013 10:04 pm

thepossumface wrote:But get me if I am wrong, a SBC 400 would push more tq/ hp than a 350 if I swap out for a newer better crank,intake,carb,headers (maybe I can use my 350 ones??) Ive thought about the 400 swap It sounds like its my range

As the old saying goes, 'there's no replacement for displacement.' In theory a 400 has more power potential than a 350, given the same mods. However, decent 400 blocks are harder to find than 350's. Also, all 400's will be 2-bolt mains, but as long you stay under 6000 rpm you won't have a problem.

by pila Wed May 29, 2013 11:33 pm

My 400( 408 now, +.040) is a 4-bolt block, which in reality is not as strong as a 2-bolt, since the main webs are kinda thin. I've run the hell out of this engine since the early 80s, with the only problem being buzzing it up too high & cracking the crank. It's been rebuilt twice through the years. And it has a lot of torque. I've been running the Comp Cams 280 Magnum cam, with Rhoads lifters, to maintain vacuum. It ate two transmissions before I built my own. The 400 seems to run a bit hotter than other small blocks, but a good radiator handles that OK.
If I wanted another long stroke small block, it would be a 383 for sure....

by thepossumface Thu May 30, 2013 3:53 pm

well I have found a reallly good block for 300, figure I could prob do some trading and get it for like 150 just for a block, no crank heads, blah blah, figure I would use my heads on my 350 but have some work done to them, put a new crank like this http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/crankshafts/make/chevrolet/engine-type/v8/engine-size/6-6l-400, cant seem to find which one would work best for a 400 with increase power, I may get it bored .030 over, but thats a big maybe.
but whats with the 6k RPM's? i do like to burn tires and hit the gas would that mean I couldnt?

by thatfnthing Thu May 30, 2013 3:55 pm

pila wrote:My 400( 408 now, +.040) is a 4-bolt block, which in reality is not as strong as a 2-bolt, since the main webs are kinda thin.

Interesting -- I had read they were all 2 bolt mains. Didn't know that animal existed.

by ant7377 Thu May 30, 2013 5:34 pm

thepossumface wrote:well I have found a reallly good block for 300, figure I could prob do some trading and get it for like 150 just for a block, no crank heads, blah blah, figure I would use my heads on my 350 but have some work done to them, put a new crank like this http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/crankshafts/make/chevrolet/engine-type/v8/engine-size/6-6l-400, cant seem to find which one would work best for a 400 with increase power, I may get it bored .030 over, but thats a big maybe.
but whats with the 6k RPM's? i do like to burn tires and hit the gas would that mean I couldnt?

Dont waste your money redoing stock heads ,just get a good after market set. Check out http://www.competitionproducts.com/ you can get a nice set there reasonable. another is Arrowhead components they too have them for less than 500 bucks a set all done and good.

by pila Thu May 30, 2013 9:59 pm

Machine work on old tech heads is likely a waste of money alright, when complete heads are coming down in price.
Chevy heads have integral valve guides, meaning they're are part of the head casting, so if the guides are worn, which is normal on old heads, they have to be bored out of the casting & new guides pressed in. Then the valve seats have to be ground to make them concentric with the new guides, as well as making the seats the correct width. And maybe a surface cut too, to make sure they are flat etc....
All this costs shop labor ($) and they are still old tech heads Mad

by driveit Sat Jun 01, 2013 8:40 am

I can't wait to get my hands on a good set of aluminum heads.

by 77mali Sat Jun 01, 2013 10:58 am

driveit wrote:I can't wait to get my hands on a good set of aluminum heads.

Make sure you get the right head gasket if your block will remain cast iron. Aluminum & cast iron expand much differently- there are gaskets (call Felpro) and or special coatings that will prevent galvanic action between the two dissimilar metals.

Sorry for the unsolicited remark Very Happy

by thepossumface Mon Jun 03, 2013 9:40 pm

so im looking at Cam's and maybe a stall convertor if this motor deal falls threw, I want mid range power, someone at the parts place told me a good one but I forgot haha, what is a good one I should get? dont really wanna buy a 800+ cam

by pila Mon Jun 03, 2013 10:13 pm

If you want good cam recommendations, call Comp Cams, and tell them what you have (engine) and what you want to do with it.
Taking advice on a forum is quite opinionated for brands, duration & lift specs etc ( me too !) Lots of very good cams out there, but a wrong choice can make a slug out of your engine.
Good example : long duration cam, like 280 & higher, with low compression heads, like 8.5 to 1 stock heads equals a dog of an engine for any power output.

by thepossumface Tue Jun 04, 2013 6:59 pm

what do you guys think of a Melling cam? I went up to AUTO ZONE and talked to my guy up there and he says that this melling cam is a good upgrade 107.00 with everything.

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