SWITCHING FROM SWEEP TO ROUND GAUGE CLUSTER RE-WIRE

1....lt green 10....blue
2....blue white stripe 11....gray
3....tan 12....lt blue
4....pink 13.....tan
5....tach lead 14....green
6....not used 15....not used
7....black 16.....pink
8....brown 17.....yellow
9....not used 18.....yellow black stripe.............................. THE REST OF THE INFO THANKS TO BRUISR................................................................ This is what I have figured out: (in no specific order other than just listing color and item it relates to). On the printed circuit there are usually 2 contacts for the bulbs, I listed whether the wire in detail is on the top or bottom of the printed circuit twist in bulb, some wires share the same path on the printed circuit.
1. Light green- hi beam (top)
2. Blue/white stripe- oil sending unit (top)
3. Tan- Emergency Brake Works when grounded out.
4. Pink- Common connection (shared by oil, brake, and Tach.
5. This is the Tach lead. (provides the signal from dizzy).
6. not used
7. Black- Common connection shared with Tachometer (middle of tach), and hi beam (bottom).
8. Brown- Amp meter (Lower)
9. not used- This is the top connection for the amp meter.
This is also the location for the volt gauge connections.
10. Blue- Right turn signal (top)
11. Gray- Common connection right turn signal (Bottom)
12. Light Blue- Left turn signal (top)
13. Tan- Fuel level indicator (top)
14. Green- Temperature gauge (top)
15. not used- This is the tailgate ajar light. (top)
16. Pink- Common connection. (Fuel,Temp. and Tailgate)
17. Yellow- Seat belt (top)
18. Yellow/ Black stripe (bottom)
If you ground out the yellow wire #17 the buzzer will sound.
As listed above, if your cluster uses an amp meter instead of a volt meter you can add your own wires to make the gauge work.
Also, If your cluster doesn't have a TACH, and you would like to add one, keep the tach in the cluster, and look at the back of it to see which studs connect to the printed circuit. Mark them, then follow the above and you can find out which 3 studs of the 6 or 7 are used to operate the tach.

Thanks Maligoon, I will need to know whats up when time to custom build the dash.

FIRST HALF WAS MINE BRUISR FINISHED IT WHEN HE REDID HIS CONVERSION BUT STILL VERY HELPFULL INDEED

Bruiser whats up with the dash bro.

Alright you twisted me arm hard enough, I'll go take a few pics. BRB.

I'll try to get a pic of the blue LED lights and white face gauges when the sun goes down tonite.

I love pics, post post post! Love that ride

These are pics of the white face gauges with blue LEDs.

that looks really good dan are there any more colors available or is it just blue??

Colors available are Red, Blue,Green, White, and Yellow. I think thats it, but not positive. I just received my order for about $120.00 worth of LED lights for the rest of my interior and a complete set of lights for my Dad's 66 chevelle. We did the same thing to his gauges. I even got the bulbs for my monster tach, autometer gauges, and even the little shift lite on the tach. Bulbs for the monster tach are known as the 074 style bulb, they consist of a single LED.


http://info@whitegauges.net/products_list.php?catID=4550

Cool thanks for the link.

i got the sweep gauge in my car found some red light bulbs and since the gauges are black with white numbers and the red lights only light up the numbers so it looks really cool at night

post a pic billy.

this is not telling how to rewire thats just listing the wire colors and what they do. No actual sweep to round gauge rewiring going on....

ill try to take better pics later but here you go
the tach
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the temp gauge
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i tried to get pics of rest of dashboard but hard to see. the rest of the dash has red lights in it. the sweep cluster has an eerie red glow that ghosts in and out because of the street lights at night and looks really cool

1....lt green 10..changes to ..blue
2....blue white stripe 11...changes to......gray
3....tan 12..changes to ..lt blue


i think you get the idea now I HOPE

looks good

cost me less than 20 bucks to change color to red

I'm wondering if when switching over to the round gauges if you can just disconnect the wires that run the gauges and leave all the others connected to run off the printed circuit? In other words, I'm considering customizing and want to run 2" gauges for Fuel, Batt, Oil pressure & Temp while running larger gauges for a Tach & Speedometer. Will the other stuff such as the turn signals, E-brake light, etc...still work or is it set up as a "unit". Maybe a stupid question but I'm asking anyway before committing to this.

77mali wrote:I'm wondering if when switching over to the round gauges if you can just disconnect the wires that run the gauges and leave all the others connected to run off the printed circuit? In other words, I'm considering customizing and want to run 2" gauges for Fuel, Batt, Oil pressure & Temp while running larger gauges for a Tach & Speedometer. Will the other stuff such as the turn signals, E-brake light, etc...still work or is it set up as a "unit". Maybe a stupid question but I'm asking anyway before committing to this.

Anyone.......?

Ok I did the swap on mine just now, and have a question about the voltmeter. With the engine running, mine shows 14-15 volts, and it varies with load, engine off, key on it is pegged out at the bottom of the scale.

Am I missing a resistor or something to cause the gauge to not report system voltage?

I did the same to the gauges in my 76. I would like to maybe someday put real gauges in my 73, instead of those damn lights.

I posted a topic on this same thing before finding this. So I see the colors and what they relate to. Has anyone actually figured out where on the dash plug in harness to relocate the wires when switching from rectangular style dash with idiot lights, to round sweeping style gauges? Or do I just have to trace the wires on the circuit sheet to the harness, and then look in the wiring schematic book to figure our what to move where? I really can't afford to fry a like new oe dash so I'f it feels like I'm beating the proverbial dead horse that's why. lol

If you're talking about the plug & re-assigning the wire's to different positions- you are better off to chase them on the circuit board & repin them if necessary. It shouldn't be too hard but you have to be real careful removing the little pins on that plug.

Yes, I was talking about removing the pins from the dash harness and relocating them to where they need to be according to the circuit sheet (circuit board). Obviously the locations from where they were at with the old dash won't match up to the new one. I know the fuel gauge wires are in the harness so that's just a matter of finding them and relocating the pins if I have to. However I'm not sure about the temp and amp gauges in the new dash. If the harness is already wired for it, or if I'll have to add wires for them since they were idiot lights before. Or do I just need a different temp sensor on the block for temp gauge? Sorry if I'm confusing. wiring was never my strong point. lol

What year is your car?  I am converting mine too but haven't got there yet.  I got a harness from another member here a while back that is specific to the tach set up.  My plan is to use that and get the proper circuit board.  Perhaps someone else here has one?  That might be a good route for you as well.  When I say harness I mean the one in the engine bay that runs from the fuse box to the alternator & starter (not the interior one under the dash).  I will still most likely have to make some mods on my pins too as mine is a 77 and my gauges are 75/76 (100 mph speedo).  It's going to be a while yet before that happens though.  Be aware also that the font's on the sport gauges are different on 75/76 versus 73/74 and 73 uses a Voltmeter versus one for Amperage.