New kid on the block
+6
Limey SE
77mali
Jedediah
74Guna
Checyxtc
yogreasygramma
10 posters
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Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
Re: New kid on the block
Here's the official sticky with several links, but yours will be easier than this:
http://www.g3gm.com/t2745-bumper-sink-in
Here's Dan's write up for 73 models and a pic of the finished product. There's more pics found in those links as well if you look around:
http://www.g3gm.com/t2745-bumper-sink-in
Here's Dan's write up for 73 models and a pic of the finished product. There's more pics found in those links as well if you look around:
BlackChevelleSS wrote:well, I hope you got a good air compressor and impact cause it sucks if ya dont.
heres what I did.
1. Remove the 8 bolts (4 on each side of car, 2 on each side of bracket) that hold the bumper to the shocks, if you can remove the 2 larger bolts, itd be easier, but I couldnt get them out with the filler installed
2. Remove everything attached to the bumper...brackets and all except you can leave the parking lights. make sure that you note where they all went
3. After removing the 20 thousand bolts across the bumper reinstall all of the chrome plated head bolts with some oil or anti-seize so it makes them easier to install and remove later on. So now all thats on the bumper is those bolts and the parking lights
4. Now I hope you noted where the brackets were located. Take the inside brackets that held the bumper to the shocks, swap sides and turn them inside out so they protrude inside the bumper, leave the attaching bolts loose.
5. Now install the bumper back on the shocks with those brackets and leave those bolts loose.
6. The fun part...now to get the bumper lined up. Itll move up and down and side to side. So get it lined up how to want to and tighten all the bolts.
There hope that helps. Dont think I left anything out. If you have questions ill be as much help as I can with answering them. If you like, take pictures as you do each step and post them up for others to follow. You have a big pile of brackets and bolts left over which is alot of weight loss.
The Dude- Management
- Street Cred : 48
Re: New kid on the block
2fat2fly wrote:That's great to here your just a few from b-town and ya when you come in forprostreet75 wrote:Your car is bitchen! Super Clean and well done. The stance is great! Don't be scared of the cage though, you can still do it and keep it clean and functional. I pick up my kids from school all the time. As soon as I finish installing the rest of the safety equipment, I'll be up in you neck of the woods at famosa.
Famoso, drop a line, I'd come watch that 75 run. I'm not sure what my car would run, I know I need to put it on a diet. Reading something Keith Seymore wrote about the hardware behind the bumpers and losing 65 lbs., and then going with the fiberglass bumpers I'm sure that helped also, Seems like I just keep adding weight. I think it's awesome you guys are getting these cars into the 9's & 10's. The last time I weighed my car it was at 4350 with me outside. I would like to check out the cage in your car to see if it would go in the 73. I'm not so much into the 1/4 mile but I kinda would like to test it once in awhile. It's all legal with the other stuff butttttt no cage, just haven't seen one that might fit in without tearing up to much, anyways good luck on the 10's. Whats the weight of your car ?, torque conv. stall ?, whats the motor packing ? and how about the diff. info.. My nephews 72 chevelle runs into the lower 10's with just motor. It's running a 545 100 over, 13-1, dart heads, davinci 1150, solid roller, lemon headers, 5250 stall, 456 with spool, 35 spline, 12 bolt & weighs in just under 3500. We actually took the solid roller lifter out and put in hyd. lifters on top of the solid cam & according to Comp.cams it ok, you just lose a bit of the top end. Did it so he didn't have to mess with having to keep an eye on the adjusting part, he's not a hands on guy. He likes to run it on the street some and or fire it up for his friends in the garage and ends up wasting the plugs, had to show him what indexing was about. ( I bet your kids like it when they ride to school in the 75 ). real quick, which dragstrip's are you running on
The engine is truly old and LOW budget. I might have $3000 in it. Its the first complete engine build I did 17 years ago when I just got out of high school. Lots or used parts, including the pistons, but I made it work. It had to be a driver also because it was the only car I had then. Little tweaks over the years and this is where its at now.
468 cu
10:1
Clay smith 304B (258 @ .050) .615 Lift
Crappy Stock Heads with 2.08 intakes but does have Stainless valves
Victor Jr. Intake with an 850 double pumper
MDS ignition
Just added Nitrous (150 shot)
Hooker Headers with 2" primaries, running through dual 3½" exhaust with dynomax bullets on them.
Car weighs 4110
All runs through a B&M 400 tranny with a Continental 3,500 stall, a 12 bolt with 4.11s and an Eaton Posi.
Track tires are Phoenix 28.5" x 14" wide Slicks. Stock suspension all the way around. (Currently modifying the rear. Putting in HD Springs, 50/50 drag shocks, and adding Lakewood lift bars)
It runs 11.90s on the motor, but not sure what it will do on the NOS. I really haven’t got to tweak the NOS yet. I got ejected before I could really test anything or play with timing. Hence, the addition of the cage and other equipment. Roasting the tires it went 11.30 before they pitched me. I did learn though that the rear suspension needed to be beefed up for the NOS Hit. After I do the rear suspension, I’m heading up to Fomosa to see if I can stick and rip off a 10.90. I’ve been running at Fontana and it's a really SLOW track.
Below are the pics of the cage. You can keep the armrests and the window cranks clear and work perfect. And if you run prosteet rear bars, the back seat is still functional. I installed this myself so if you have any questions, let me know.
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prostreet75- G3GM Member
- Street Cred : 0
Re: New kid on the block
I have to say that cage doesn't look to bad at all, looks like you did a clean install & the kids seem like their ready to go also. You were talking about having stock suspension, when I was running in the 12.20's & 30's I pulled the sway bar off & got a noticeable hook up in the rear. It seems the more you can get that front end to lift it does shift some weight to the rear. I don't remember if I said anything about Keith Seymore, he was saying that he was still with the 10 bolt but had put in a spool, gears and axles and I think he said that he only changed the location mounts on the 4-link, I'm probably off on that one, anyways it's in here somewhere. Thanks for sharing the specs on the car, always nice to see what it takes to get these things down the road.prostreet75 wrote:2fat2fly wrote:That's great to here your just a few from b-town and ya when you come in forprostreet75 wrote:Your car is bitchen! Super Clean and well done. The stance is great! Don't be scared of the cage though, you can still do it and keep it clean and functional. I pick up my kids from school all the time. As soon as I finish installing the rest of the safety equipment, I'll be up in you neck of the woods at famosa.
Famoso, drop a line, I'd come watch that 75 run. I'm not sure what my car would run, I know I need to put it on a diet. Reading something Keith Seymore wrote about the hardware behind the bumpers and losing 65 lbs., and then going with the fiberglass bumpers I'm sure that helped also, Seems like I just keep adding weight. I think it's awesome you guys are getting these cars into the 9's & 10's. The last time I weighed my car it was at 4350 with me outside. I would like to check out the cage in your car to see if it would go in the 73. I'm not so much into the 1/4 mile but I kinda would like to test it once in awhile. It's all legal with the other stuff butttttt no cage, just haven't seen one that might fit in without tearing up to much, anyways good luck on the 10's. Whats the weight of your car ?, torque conv. stall ?, whats the motor packing ? and how about the diff. info.. My nephews 72 chevelle runs into the lower 10's with just motor. It's running a 454 100 over, 13-1, dart heads, davinci 1150, solid roller, lemon headers, 5250 stall, 456 with spool, 35 spline, 12 bolt & weighs in just under 3500. We actually took the solid roller lifter out and put in hyd. lifters on top of the solid cam & according to Comp.cams it ok, you just lose a bit of the top end. Did it so he didn't have to mess with having to keep an eye on the adjusting part, he's not a hands on guy. He likes to run it on the street some and or fire it up for his friends in the garage and ends up wasting the plugs, had to show him what indexing was about. ( I bet your kids like it when they ride to school in the 75 ).---- real quick, which dragstrip's are you running on
The engine is truly old and LOW budget. I might have $3000 in it. Its the first complete engine build I did 17 years ago when I just got out of high school. Lots or used parts, including the pistons, but I made it work. It had to be a driver also because it was the only car I had then. Little tweaks over the years and this is where its at now.
468 cu
10:1
Clay smith 304B (258 @ .050) .615 Lift
Crappy Stock Heads with 2.08 intakes but does have Stainless valves
Victor Jr. Intake with an 850 double pumper
MDS ignition
Just added Nitrous (150 shot)
Hooker Headers with 2" primaries, running through dual 3½" exhaust with dynomax bullets on them.
Car weighs 4110
All runs through a B&M 400 tranny with a Continental 3,500 stall, a 12 bolt with 4.11s and an Eaton Posi.
Track tires are Phoenix 28.5" x 14" wide Slicks. Stock suspension all the way around. (Currently modifying the rear. Putting in HD Springs, 50/50 drag shocks, and adding Lakewood lift bars)
It runs 11.90s on the motor, but not sure what it will do on the NOS. I really haven’t got to tweak the NOS yet. I got ejected before I could really test anything or play with timing. Hence, the addition of the cage and other equipment. Roasting the tires it went 11.30 before they pitched me. I did learn though that the rear suspension needed to be beefed up for the NOS Hit. After I do the rear suspension, I’m heading up to Fomosa to see if I can stick and rip off a 10.90. I’ve been running at Fontana and it's a really SLOW track.
Below are the pics of the cage. You can keep the armrests and the window cranks clear and work perfect. And if you run prosteet rear bars, the back seat is still functional. I installed this myself so if you have any questions, let me know.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
I forgot to mention he also said he was running a station wagon spring on the RR and a bag on the LR with 60 psi, seems to be working for him
2fat2fly- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 2
Re: New kid on the block
The station wagon HD springs are already on their way! I've heard about the bags and it definetely sounds like a good idea. I'm going to try and run the Bars first since I already have them and see what it does. My front end is LOSE right now and the transfer is good. Even with the weak rear suspension, I get the front left tire about 8" off the ground at times.
You should get that cage in there this winter and hit the summit series with me next season. You might need to look into a 10 point though. With all that potential power, i could easily see you cracking into the 9s
You should get that cage in there this winter and hit the summit series with me next season. You might need to look into a 10 point though. With all that potential power, i could easily see you cracking into the 9s
prostreet75- G3GM Member
- Street Cred : 0
Re: New kid on the block
Finally got around to reading this. Wow - Love the F2! ProCharger is definitley the way to go! Would love to see a couple more motor pics if you have them. I'd like to see the intercooler mounting if possible.
Also - Have you had any issues with the transmission? I'm looking to up my boost, but I don't think mine will hold up to the beating.
I went with a D1SC w/intercooler on my 383 as a complete afterthought. Knowing what I know now, I would have done it differently and stepped up to the F1 or F2.
Also - Have you had any issues with the transmission? I'm looking to up my boost, but I don't think mine will hold up to the beating.
I went with a D1SC w/intercooler on my 383 as a complete afterthought. Knowing what I know now, I would have done it differently and stepped up to the F1 or F2.
74Malibu383- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 26
Re: New kid on the block
74Malibu383 wrote:Finally got around to reading this. Wow - Love the F2! ProCharger is definitley the way to go! Would love to see a couple more motor pics if you have them. I'd like to see the intercooler mounting if possible.
Also - Have you had any issues with the transmission? I'm looking to up my boost, but I don't think mine will hold up to the beating.
I went with a D1SC w/intercooler on my 383 as a complete afterthought. Knowing what I know now, I would have done it differently and stepped up to the F1 or F2.
Thanks I'll work at getting a pic of the intercooler, it's nothing special just fabbed up and went with it. you'll have to also fab up any accessory drives because on the crank pulley you get 1 grove extra to run any accessory that you think you need. Since I went with a cog setup, I figured out because I wanted it all (power steering, ac, alt.) I fabbed a spacer in between the water pump cog and another pulley to bolt to that cog which in turn drove my ac, and alt. while the single crank pulley ran a p/s pump, it all seems to work and hold. The f-2 may be a bit much on a 383, my suggestion is to call pro charger and talk to them as to which unit to go with.
When I put the 540 in I also put a low mileage 1997 4l80-e in, it held up well, When I put the blower on and after about 4-6 times on the throttle I noticed some slight slippage between the 2-3 shift. I didn't push it anymore, later I picked up a 2003 trans. out of a fire damaged trk. which was in super shape, a perfect donor. I pulled it apart and did my homework on upgrades and parts, then rebuilt the trans., not hard to do it's much like a 400 just some stuff out front. I went with the blue plates setup through out. The models up to 1996 (stay away from) 97-99 had some upgrades, 99-03 was improved even more, you'll need some type of controller and I'm running a 2500 tcs (the convertor shop) out of Lake Havasu City Az., it's a beauty. The 4l80-e is a bit bigger than the 400 and you will have to modify the rear mount and the driveline. The 4l80-e bigger, I also meant to say heavier.
2fat2fly- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 2
Re: New kid on the block
Yes, a F2 is definitely too much for a 383... Long story, but a big block was always the plan for my car. Oh well... next revision.
I went with ProCharger's serpentine set up, so I'm good on all the brackets.
I went with ProCharger's serpentine set up, so I'm good on all the brackets.
74Malibu383- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 26
Re: New kid on the block
74Malibu383 wrote:Yes, a F2 is definitely too much for a 383... Long story, but a big block was always the plan for my car. Oh well... next revision.
I went with ProCharger's serpentine set up, so I'm good on all the brackets.
When I went with mine there was no other brackets for the big block, are they making them now for the big block, It would save alot of time. Your setup under the hood looks nice, I'm betting you tend to surprise people. Is their a pop off on your pressure side of the blower or is it just hidden and is your inter-cooler below the rad., I had to take out the center grill support to push the cooler into that space, and I did 45 my intake out to the driver side to get away from the exh. anyways keep in touch.
2fat2fly- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 2
Re: New kid on the block
Thanks. Yes, people are definitely surprised. The blower smoothed out the idle a lot, so it doesn't even sound like 660HP. Sure sounds like it when I'm in it though. Yes, the pop off valve is hidden and points towards the ground down by the steering box.
The intercooler is actually right in front of the radiator, between the core support and the radiator. However, I currently have it torn apart to move it out front. Once it hits 110 down here in AZ, she runs a little hot. I took out the center grill support last week and I am fabbing up new brackets to replace it.
With that said, did you replace the center grill support, or are you running with out it. I was debating running without it, but didn't think the four bolts holding the header pannel to the headlight buckets was strong enough. If it was just an around town car, I wouldn't worry about it. I'm planning on a couple long trips though, and don't want any issues.
The intercooler is actually right in front of the radiator, between the core support and the radiator. However, I currently have it torn apart to move it out front. Once it hits 110 down here in AZ, she runs a little hot. I took out the center grill support last week and I am fabbing up new brackets to replace it.
With that said, did you replace the center grill support, or are you running with out it. I was debating running without it, but didn't think the four bolts holding the header pannel to the headlight buckets was strong enough. If it was just an around town car, I wouldn't worry about it. I'm planning on a couple long trips though, and don't want any issues.
74Malibu383- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 26
Re: New kid on the block
74Malibu383 wrote:Thanks. Yes, people are definitely surprised. The blower smoothed out the idle a lot, so it doesn't even sound like 660HP. Sure sounds like it when I'm in it though. Yes, the pop off valve is hidden and points towards the ground down by the steering box.
The intercooler is actually right in front of the radiator, between the core support and the radiator. However, I currently have it torn apart to move it out front. Once it hits 110 down here in AZ, she runs a little hot. I took out the center grill support last week and I am fabbing up new brackets to replace it.
With that said, did you replace the center grill support, or are you running with out it. I was debating running without it, but didn't think the four bolts holding the header pannel to the headlight buckets was strong enough. If it was just an around town car, I wouldn't worry about it. I'm planning on a couple long trips though, and don't want any issues.
My cooler is mounted to the rad. support on each side (just 2 mounts) and it does tend to block the air coming in. Here in Bakersfield it hits 105 +or- at times and I can run in town about 190-200, at hwy. speeds it tends to run on up about 210-220 which I try to stay away from. I figured out at higher speeds the air coming thru the grill can run anywhere and with the cooler in front it shoots up and over the rad. core and thru the sides. I took some 1/8 in. aluminum and made a cover across the top of the rad. support and the top of the grill support & from fender to fender, took care of the sides of the rad. tanks where air was also slipping by instead of going thru the core. I had it polished and it looks good but I think I'll remake it using stainless, the aluminum is just to touchy. I run 2 fans pulling 4500 cfm (pullers) and with the addition of the trapped air now being kept towards the core it's alot better, 185-195 hwy. speeds, something to think about
I haven't had any problems with the 4 screws on the grill. I also had to run the tubing on the pas. side thru the rad. support next to the rad.. Keep up the good work, these things make good drivers and come with a binaca blast when needed.
2fat2fly- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 2
Re: New kid on the block
got a pic of the piece from the rad. to the header74Malibu383 wrote:Thanks. Yes, people are definitely surprised. The blower smoothed out the idle a lot, so it doesn't even sound like 660HP. Sure sounds like it when I'm in it though. Yes, the pop off valve is hidden and points towards the ground down by the steering box.
The intercooler is actually right in front of the radiator, between the core support and the radiator. However, I currently have it torn apart to move it out front. Once it hits 110 down here in AZ, she runs a little hot. I took out the center grill support last week and I am fabbing up new brackets to replace it.
With that said, did you replace the center grill support, or are you running with out it. I was debating running without it, but didn't think the four bolts holding the header pannel to the headlight buckets was strong enough. If it was just an around town car, I wouldn't worry about it. I'm planning on a couple long trips though, and don't want any issues.
[img][/img][img][/img]
2fat2fly- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 2
Re: New kid on the block
Just saw these. Looks good. I just finished moving my intercooler from between the core support and rad, to where yours is. I started a few months back, but only completed it two weeks ago. I just couldn't find the time to work on it. Unfortunately, the cooler weather has moved in, so I can't really do any testing. Time will tell....
74Malibu383- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 26
Re: New kid on the block
OK I think I need an update on that rod you've been working on, I haven't been keeping an eye on it SOOOOOOOOOO74Malibu383 wrote:Just saw these. Looks good. I just finished moving my intercooler from between the core support and rad, to where yours is. I started a few months back, but only completed it two weeks ago. I just couldn't find the time to work on it. Unfortunately, the cooler weather has moved in, so I can't really do any testing. Time will tell....
2fat2fly- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 2
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