have to fix leaking brake line connection

by dhw3971 Mon Apr 13, 2015 4:03 pm

I have a leak at the front passenger corner where the hard line from the master cylinder meets the flexible line to the caliper. I've not repaired brakes before (aside from easy motorcycle stuff) and am wondering what I am getting into. I see there is some type of L-shaped (rusty) bracket on the frame that seems to be a union between the two lines and that is where the leak is. Do I need to disconnect the lines there and replace....??? the flexible line? I could use an overview of what I need to prepare for.

by dynchel Mon Apr 13, 2015 5:10 pm

Is the problem a rusted out steel line, or is the flex hose leaking? If its the flex hose its a straight forward replacement. Replacing the steel line is a little more difficult, but doable. BTW that line should be coming from the prop valve (on the frame by your feet on the drivers side)

by Mcarlo77 Mon Apr 13, 2015 5:23 pm

Actually, the hard line is coming off your Proportion Valve that is mounted on the frame down below your master cylinder. The "L" shaped bracket is used to retain the flexible hose where it is threaded to the hard line. You'll need to clean that up and remove the "U" shaped or horseshoe clip if you're going to separate and remove the flexible hose on that end. If the new flex hose doesn't stop the leak, you can probably conclude the problem lies with the hard line fitting. If that's the case, most likely will require replacing the entire line...or, with the right tools/fittings, a spliced section to the flex hose. Personally, I'd just go with a pre-bent line. They aren't that expensive; nor are the flex hoses.

by dhw3971 Tue Apr 14, 2015 8:52 am

ah, good questions you ask. I don't yet know where the actual leak is but I know all the hard lines were replaced in the last 7-8 years and since the car is only driven about 1000 miles a year in the summer I'm guessing the steel isn't at fault (but I could be wrong).

Time to get the wheel off and see what's going on...

by dhw3971 Wed Apr 22, 2015 2:25 pm

With some patience I have restored stopping power to my hot rod station wagon! I replaced both flex lines and was able to bleed the brakes myself with the help of a speed bleeder in each caliper.

Are the brakes on these cars somewhat mushy? It's been 5 months since I last drove the car so I can't really recall what they are supposed to feel like. Seems like pedal goes nearly to floor even though the car comes to a complete stop. I guess I am spoiled by my modern daily driver.

by Wallyuph Wed Apr 22, 2015 2:43 pm

dhw3971 wrote:With some patience I have restored stopping power to my hot rod station wagon! I replaced both flex lines and was able to bleed the brakes myself with the help of a speed bleeder in each caliper.

Are the brakes on these cars somewhat mushy? It's been 5 months since I last drove the car so I can't really recall what they are supposed to feel like. Seems like pedal goes nearly to floor even though the car comes to a complete stop. I guess I am spoiled by my modern daily driver.

If its mushy and goes almost to the floor then odds are you still have air in the line. Bleed them with a helper this time and see if you get any air out. Don't forget to keep checking the master cylinder during the process to make sure you don't run master dry of fluid.

by dhw3971 Wed Apr 22, 2015 2:50 pm

Thanks for the tip, Wallyuph...ugh. what a PITA. Mad

I'll bleed 'em a bit more and see what results I have.

by dynchel Wed Apr 22, 2015 5:44 pm

Make sure the rears are adjusted properly also.

by pila Wed Apr 22, 2015 6:23 pm

All good advice here...... Air in the system is tough to get out without a helper to push the pedal. One mistake a lot of folks make, is pumping the pedal when bleeding brakes. It introduces more air into the system. Taking the pedal down once & holding it a few seconds while the bleeder is being closed, is what is noted in service manuals. And waiting about 10 to 15 seconds before the next pump is also recommended. I found this procedure to work good.

by Mcarlo77 Wed Apr 22, 2015 6:50 pm

I've tried the gravity method, speed bleeders and the hand vacuum pump...but, nothing works as well for me as having someone (lately, it's been my wife) push the brake pedal while I man the bleeders.

by thatfnthing Wed Apr 22, 2015 7:06 pm

I discovered the same, especially after retrofitting ABS. There's no substitute for the procedure from the factory shop manual.

by dhw3971 Wed Apr 29, 2015 1:58 pm

With the help of a long cardboard tube (acting as my pedal-holder-downer) I was able to get the remaining air out of the lines! Drove around the block a few times and the pedal feel is great! with the tube holding down the pedal I closed the open bleeder, repeated a few times on each side and am now stopping with confidence.

Next, I will learn how to silence my clackity valvetrain.

by dhw3971 Wed May 13, 2015 3:24 pm

The clackity valve train has been silenced and the last problem I've got is that I now have fluid leaking from the master cylinder and running down onto the vacuum booster. I've installed a new cap gasket but that hasn't solved it. Might I have too much fluid in the cylinder and it's being forced out?

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