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new fuel pump set up

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new fuel pump set up Empty new fuel pump set up

Post by patriot_5420 Wed Jun 12, 2013 7:24 pm

hey guys, i just bought a new engine for the Elkay, a 92 350 out of a pick up. What i've run into is the new engine does not have provisions for the mechanical fuel pump. I'm going to keep it carb'd for a while, probably running the stock QJ maybe getting an edlebrock performer while i rebuild the stock carb, and i need to find a good electric fuel pump set up. I'm looking for any and all suggestions that will fit my needs.

What i would like do is find a good electric fuel pump that wont break the bank and will run ok with the carb set up. I've considered a pump/adjustable reg set up but that may be a little more cash than what i can sink into the project right now. 

Is anyone here running a set up like what i'm looking for that is good and still cost effective? Looking for suggestions with brand(s) and part number(s) and any other modding you have done to make it work right, if possible. Thanks guys.

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Post by JiMi_DRiX Wed Jun 12, 2013 8:44 pm

I have an electric fuel pump setup on my 76. While its probably not a budget pump, I do recommend getting one that that is either internally regulated or getting a regulator. Mine is mounted in the trunk inline with the fuel tank lines. So my path runs from the tank, straight up into the trunk, out the pump straight back down, and connecting to the hard fuel line.

https://www.holley.com/12-125.asp
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Post by pila Wed Jun 12, 2013 9:56 pm

If you get on Summit Racing's online catalog, you can see what's available in electric fuel pumps, in all price ranges.  I have the engine driven pump, but added an electric to boost pressure just a bit.  It's a low-priced pump from Mr Gasket, and can be adjusted.
  The Q-jet will work OK on 5 PSI if it's an older one.  The Edelbrock carb wont fit a Q-jet spread-bore manifold though, and the Edelbrock carbs don't like over 5 PSI fuel pressure by the way.
  If you have a manifold that works with both the square bore & spread-bore,, the ones with the plate for using either carb, you are OK.  Weiand and Edelbrock have manifolds like that type.
  Have fun !!Very Happy

BILL

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Post by patriot_5420 Thu Jun 13, 2013 3:19 am

This one?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-12s/overview/

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Post by pila Thu Jun 13, 2013 7:09 am

I don't think that one will keep up the volume you will need.  35 GPH wont supply enough when you have your foot in it ( which we know you will ! Very Happy)
  About twice that much volume would do it. Normal driving doesn't need much volume, but full power launches may run the float bowl fuel level too low etc.
  Others here may have some info on this too of course.

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Post by bracketchev1221 Thu Jun 13, 2013 7:54 am

80 gph will feed any mild small block.  The trick is though, to find one that the buzzing won't drive you crazy.    The Mallory 140 pump is quiet, maybe this one will be the same.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-4070m

It does say it requires a regulator though.
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Post by pila Fri Jun 14, 2013 10:00 am

When you wire the power to whatever pump you decide to use, make the wire gauge is heavy enough to assure no voltage drop by the time it gets back to the pump.  If there isn't a full voltage to the pump, it may run slower than design & overheat the motor.  I used a relay at the pump, but you likely don't need to go that way.
 Electric pumps work best when mounted as close to the tank as practical.

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Post by patriot_5420 Fri Jun 14, 2013 7:27 pm

right right. We are planning to mount the pump right near the tank outlet and making a rock shield for it. Now on most of the imports i've worked on we considered it good practice to mount the regulator , if you have a separate unit, as close to the fuel rail as possible. Is that the same with carb mentioned or do you guys normally try to get it as close to the pump as possible?

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Post by pila Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:30 pm

I'm not using a regulator this time around, but all the installations I've done & seen have the regulator inline near the carb, and usually with a gauge tapped inline, for reference while adjusting the regulator.  I suppose the gauge can be removed once the pressure is where it needs to be.

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Post by patriot_5420 Fri Jun 14, 2013 11:05 pm

that's what I figured, just makes sense for ease of tuning.

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