Update on new motor

by JF74chevelle Sun Sep 24, 2017 2:24 pm

Got the motor fired and broke in the cam.

A few questions. The car gets super hot runs about 220 in the driveway, I haven't driven around yet. And can someone help me "purge" the air out of the system and what I need to do.

Also I burnt two plug wires and I'm getting a new set of 8. The motor doesn't seem to want to idle below 950-1000. It'll try to die. The cam is the XE274H comp cam. Any help on that is appreciated.

Since I accidentally burnt the number one plug wire I haven't been able to time it very well. And I burnt the number 2 plugs wire.

by Podor Sun Sep 24, 2017 3:42 pm

Try a Spill Free Funnel from Lisle tools. It is a large funnel that attaches to the filler neck of the radiator. It raises the level of the coolant above the high spots in the system and helps push the air out, and it allows it to burp and keep the coolant level up. It should be at most parts stores and is fairly cheap. Make sure your mechanical fan clutch is working. Without air flow, it will overheat. Once you get the plug wires fixed, timing set and carb adjusted, if it still won't idle, check for vacuum leaks.

by JF74chevelle Sun Sep 24, 2017 4:34 pm

Okay thank you.

by fasrnur Sun Sep 24, 2017 4:56 pm

I sometimes take the thermostat housing and thermostat out and fill it till it comes out of the intake there. That way I know the engine in full and no air in it.

by JF74chevelle Sun Sep 24, 2017 6:15 pm

fasrnur wrote:I sometimes take the thermostat housing and thermostat out and fill it till it comes out of the intake there. That way I know the engine in full and no air in it.

I'll try this

by bigredlaguna Sun Sep 24, 2017 9:14 pm

How far out are the idle mix screws?

by JF74chevelle Sun Sep 24, 2017 10:27 pm

bigredlaguna wrote:How far out are the idle mix screws?

I haven't checked yet

by bigredlaguna Sun Sep 24, 2017 11:20 pm

What is the timing set at?

by JF74chevelle Sun Sep 24, 2017 11:28 pm

bigredlaguna wrote:What is the timing set at?

I tried to set the timing but the plug wire burnt so I couldn't get a reading. I have a new set on the way

by bigredlaguna Mon Sep 25, 2017 1:03 am

Ok, get the timing set properly first, then work with the carb. Late timing can cause the issues with running hot and bad/no idle.

If there is a vacuum leak big enough to kill the engine, you would more than likely hear it. But check for leaks with a spray can of carb cleaner that has a straw and spray the vacuum lines, ports, and along the gaskets under the carb and between the heads and intake. Some guys like to use propane, if the engine speed changes, you found the leak.

Keep at it, this is the fun part!

by JF74chevelle Mon Sep 25, 2017 1:17 am

bigredlaguna wrote:Ok, get the timing set properly first, then work with the carb. Late timing can cause the issues with running hot and bad/no idle.

If there is a vacuum leak big enough to kill the engine, you would more than likely hear it. But check for leaks with a spray can of carb cleaner that has a straw and spray the vacuum lines, ports, and along the gaskets under the carb and between the heads and intake. Some guys like to use propane, if the engine speed changes, you found the leak.

Keep at it, this is the fun part!

Yeah, I don't want to run the engine with those burnt wires because I think it burnt them so bad I dropped those cylinders so I'm not going to fire it up till I get my wires. Then I'll set timing and adjust the valves and carb.

by Hs1973 Wed Sep 27, 2017 11:45 am

Sometimes new motors will run a little hotter than normal due to tight tolerances, or at least that what a motor builders once told me. I usually drill a small hole in the termostat before putting it in. That Way air wont get trapped and its no problem getting the air out.

by JF74chevelle Wed Sep 27, 2017 11:50 am

Hs1973 wrote:Sometimes new motors will run a little hotter than normal due to tight tolerances, or at least that what a motor builders once told me. I usually drill a small hole in the termostat before putting it in. That Way air wont get trapped and its no problem getting the air out.

I'm still working on trying to get the motor to idle. I think I'll check the floats and clean out the idle circuit. Or throw it in the trash and get a Holley lol

by Hs1973 Sat Sep 30, 2017 12:16 pm

I bet you will get it going as it should, just keep plucking away at it and you will get there. When i first restored my chevelle it took almost a year before it was running and driving as i should. It had a lot of small issues that i needed to fix before it was reliable and working like i wanted it to. I had a carb issue that ended with a new edelbrock. And a driveline vibration that drove me nuts. Its not like on overhauling where its done in 7 days. ( i wonder how there cars work after 7 days) lol

by JF74chevelle Sat Sep 30, 2017 4:18 pm

Forgot to tell you guys.....I found bent exhaust valves. Pulled the heads this morning and brought them to a machine shop. Hopefully get hem back soon.

by fasrnur Sat Sep 30, 2017 5:09 pm

That's too bad sir. You've had some terrible luck with this so far. It's got to get better. The cam being off surely caused the bent valves, huh?

by JF74chevelle Sun Oct 01, 2017 2:58 am

fasrnur wrote:That's too bad sir. You've had some terrible luck with this so far. It's got to get better. The cam being off surely caused the bent valves, huh?

Yeah but I'm not going to sweat it. I already dropped them off at a reputable machine shop and the price was good. I guess you live and learn and next motor I will definitely not be doing making this mistake again lol

by bracketchev1221 Sun Oct 01, 2017 12:13 pm

Well that really sucks. Make sure none of the pushrods are bent either.

by JF74chevelle Sun Oct 01, 2017 12:28 pm

bracketchev1221 wrote:Well that really sucks. Make sure none of the pushrods are bent either.

That is how I noticed it. I bought new ones.

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