brake issues...

by nowforever13 Fri May 12, 2017 8:38 am

brand new both wheel cylinders rebuilt drums and new shoes. front has a new passenger side caliper. and a new master cylinder i have virtually no brakes pedal gos 1/2 way down before any resistance plus im loosing pressure. i can unplug the vaccum on my booster and it still goes almost all the way to the floor ( its SUPER hard to push) but i still loose pressure...... help

by clanceman427 Fri May 12, 2017 11:27 am

gotta start at the master cylinder since you mention it's new- did you bench bleed it and assure you got all the air bubbles out? Please describe exactly how you bled the master cylinder and we can go from there. If you didn't bench bleed the master cylinder, then I suggest you unbolt the master cylinder and bench bleed it.

by Hs1973 Fri May 12, 2017 1:01 pm

Yes the master needs to be bench bleed or you will never get it right. Also there is a little button on the distributor Block on he frame. Its right under the mastercylinder and has the wire for the brakelight in the dash. In the end of it is a little button under a rubber boot. It needs to be pressed in an stay there while you bleed your brakes. Othervise air can get trapped in the distributor Block. But the most importent is the master Being bench bleed, and not just a little bit so there is no air left. It can take a while to get there. But its worth the effort doing it, otherwise getting a prober pedal is a pita.

by Hawk03 Fri May 12, 2017 1:21 pm

To add, make sure you have a new master cylinder and not a rebuilt one. The rebuilt ones have been known to fail out of the box.

by pila Fri May 12, 2017 9:45 pm

My rebuilt master cylinder didn't fail out of the box, it took about 100 miles !!! Then I bought a new aluminum one from Summit !

by nowforever13 Sat May 13, 2017 10:02 pm

ive bench bled the sh!T out of it... im going to replace my drivers side caliper for sticking (its about 7 years old anyway) and then at that point i might as well replace my booster.. it will be the only thing i havent yet replaced..
have you guys had any issues out of the wearever brand master cylinders? the one i replaced when i restored the car back in '11 was wearever.. and its lasted this long and i dont even think its broken
ive clipped off all lines with vice grips to test my master cyl and my pwr booster. brakes are hard as a rock... rules out BOTH of those. after that i bench bled them AGAIN.. lol never seen anything like this in my life

by ant7377 Sun May 14, 2017 8:15 am

Since you have good pressure with just the master now get the fronts hooked up and see what happens,if good move on from there. I hate dealing with lines and bleeding and all of it. Most hated job.

by nowforever13 Sun May 14, 2017 9:58 am

ive un plugged them after the ENTIRE SYSTEM has been bled... its really getting on my nerves Sad

moving on to the stuck driver side caliper which will be here tomorrow some time. then i guess i might as well replace my brake booster because i would have already replaced EVERYTHING besides my steel lines

by ant7377 Sun May 14, 2017 10:04 am

Did you do some kind of conversion? Maybe the pushrod from the pedal is not long enough? Maybe try a vacuum pump on the wheel cylinders to pull fluid out too. Might have an air bubble in there. Is the button on the proportion valve pushed in?

by ant7377 Sun May 14, 2017 10:06 am

Another thing could be one of the brake hoses is collapsed inside and not moving fluid well.

by nowforever13 Sun May 14, 2017 9:29 pm

no... no conversions and i havent checked those yet. how do i figure out which hose is collapsed?

by ant7377 Sun May 14, 2017 9:41 pm

It will let fluid through to the bleeder under pressure then close up again. After you bleed and leave the bleeder open does fluid keep flowing?

by nowforever13 Mon May 15, 2017 7:53 am

nope... after i bleed it thats it lol nothing else comes

by ant7377 Mon May 15, 2017 2:17 pm

Maybe thats the problem then. Maybe change them to eliminate one more thing.

by clanceman427 Mon May 15, 2017 6:49 pm

Are you positive you're not loosing any fluid? How is the metal line going from combination valve to rear differential? Also, the hose and splitter above the rear differential? My metal line rusted thru and I was losing fluid at the frame near the trans crossmember. Another member here just discovered a Leak at the splitter above the rear differential

by nowforever13 Fri Jul 21, 2017 5:37 pm

i have finally figured it out.... so after months of speculation,cussing, and throwing things. i decided to take off my master cylinder and pump my brakes and watch the rod in the booster.... turns out that the spring and piston inside are bad smh all this time and i couldve just bought a booster. needless to say my entire brake system will be new

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