Can't get my brakes bled.

by fasrnur Sat Aug 06, 2016 9:11 am

So here's my problem.
My car was a barn find and I'm finding little things as I go along to bring it back to good reliable transportation and fun to drive. My latest "fix" is my brakes. I had first thought that my master cylinder was bad, so I replaced it. Got the brakes some what better, but not what I wanted. I then had my wife help me bleed them and low and behold, the rear brake lines were weak, rusted, and showed it's ugly face by squirting brake fluid in 3 or 4 different places in the rear brake lines. So I replace the lines from the proportioning valve to the rear wheel cylinders. Now for my latest problem. I can't flipping get any brakes fluid past the prop valve. CRAP!

Do any of you master mechanics have any thoughts on what I might be over looking?

Thanks,
Jeff

by Hs1973 Sat Aug 06, 2016 10:37 am

On the propvalve is a little Burton in the end, you need to hold it in while you bleed the brakes. Did you remember to do that? Othervise no fluid will come trough it.

by fasrnur Sat Aug 06, 2016 11:21 am

I did not HS1973. I'll have to try that and let you know how it goes. Thanks!

by Joe73 Sat Aug 06, 2016 12:25 pm

Definitely hold the button til you get fluid through. When you replaced the master, did you properly "bench bleed" it ? That could be part of your problem not moving fluid. Also, you replaced the lines from the proportioning valve to the rear wheel cylinders. Does that include the rubber line in the center above the differential ? Rubber lines can swell internally over time and not allow enough fluid past it. I've had that problem on three vehicles over the years. Simple bad rubber line.

by Hawk03 Sat Aug 06, 2016 1:36 pm

I purchased a rebuilt master cylinder and it was bad. Bought a new one and it solved a lot my bleeding issue. I've read other people have had issues with rebuilt master cylinders as well.

by Hs1973 Sat Aug 06, 2016 2:29 pm

If you forget to bench bleed the mastercylinder before you install it,it can rip the inside rubber gizmos, and it will be almost impossible to get a good pedal. Or worst case no pedal at all. Also i like to force fluid trough with a vacum contrabtion i dont know the american term for. But i sucks fluid trough with a vacum.

by fasrnur Sat Aug 06, 2016 3:38 pm

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I spent the morning at the local u-pull it yard chasing parts for my daily beater Malibu. (99) I haven't tried any of these things yet, but am about to give it a go. Thanks again.

by Joe73 Sat Aug 06, 2016 3:54 pm

When I bleed brakes I use a Mity-Vac pump with bleeder attachment. Just top off the master, snap the fitting on the bleeder, open the bleeder, and pump the handle. Sucks the fluid right out.
Great tool since you can bleed brakes without a helper.

by clanceman427 Sat Aug 06, 2016 6:31 pm

Joe same here! Been using my mitivac on countless cars so 've I work by myself. It takes the abuse too!

by pila Sat Aug 06, 2016 7:29 pm

Ditto on the rebuilt master cylinders. I had very questionable brakes, and changed the old booster, which really gave good brakes. Then I noticed the rebuilt master cylinder leaking out the rear, onto my new booster Head Bang

So I replaced it with a NEW one ! It had about 120 miles on it..real crap... Exclamation

by clanceman427 Sat Aug 06, 2016 8:27 pm

I couldn't get pedal with a Master Power Brake brand master cylinder once on one of my old cars. Couldn't figure it out so I took it back off and took it apart. I discovered that whoever assembled it had installed one of the cup seals backwards. Luckily that was the only problem. But still it shouldn't happen when you pay for a new one.

by Mcarlo77 Sat Aug 06, 2016 9:27 pm

As mentioned...sounds like the inner prop valve piston was pushed to the one side to cut off flow of fluid to the rear lines since you had leakage there. That's what it's supposed to do. Did you notice whether the dash brake light came on? Of course, the light might not be functional...so, that's not always a clear indicator.

You need to get that piston centered within the prop valve. And next time, use this helpful little plug before bleeding. Unscrew your warning light switch and thread this in. It will keep that piston from moving. When you're done, swap the warning switch back in. Works like a charm and you aren't screwing around with that end button...or, trying to equalize the pressure by cracking open a line on the opposite end you are bleeding.

Can't get my brakes bled. Propva10

by fasrnur Sat Aug 06, 2016 9:55 pm

A big thanks out to all that chimed in on this topic. Thumbs up

Turns out after taking off the "rebuilt" master, it was a piece of crap. Took it back and got a new one to replace it and low and behold....brakes all around. cheers

by Mcarlo77 Sat Aug 06, 2016 10:46 pm

Yet another example of why everyone should heed this advice...NEVER, NEVER, EVER BUY REBUILT MASTER CYLINDERS.

by Hs1973 Sun Aug 07, 2016 7:04 am

I Think we all have been there with bad " new " parts. My termostathouse with less than 500 miles on it, was rustet trough from the inside leaking coolant all over. I had to replace a fuelpump 3 times before the third one actually worked like it should. I bought new rear light lenses for my camaro, looked like crap with glue squirtet all over the plastic lense. Gauges and oilsenders not working or showing all Wrong readings. Latest on the list was my new a arm bushings worn out after a 1000 miles and sqeaking like hell. All made in china. I askes my parts pusher why they sell only crap. And he Said that If there was a cheap crappy part and a more expensive one, people only buy the cheap ones. So they only import the cheap stuff. Im in Europe so the parts are expensive when u ad the toll and tax plus freight. Some times its more than the parts cost themselves. Im sorry to say that it dosent look like its getting better. So im importens my own parts and try to avoid the worst and cheapest stuff. I would rather pay more than have to change out parts i just bought.

by fasrnur Sun Aug 07, 2016 4:30 pm

So true there Steve. A lesson learned on my part. Hs1973, it must be very tough to get "good" parts where you are at. We here in the states take it for granted indeed.

I did learn one thing yesterday while scrounging thru the you pull it yard too. You don't need to take a jump box with you to test electric motors if you have your trusty 18 volt cordless drill or impact with you. Just pop out the battery and hook up the wires to the battery. Worked like a charm for me. Clapp

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