Automatic windows
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G3GM :: G3 :: General Discussion
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Automatic windows
I've had this problem with my automatic windows for about 2 weeks where I can't seem to roll my windows down. I have automatic windows and was wondering if I should replace my window relay to start off? Not too fond of electrical so I'm not exactly sure what I should do? Any help is appreciated.
lownslow75- G3GM Newbie
- Street Cred : 0
Re: Automatic windows
I'll take a gander at my FB manual when I get home. It sounds like fuse/breaker, but since I wired mine from scratch with a Caprice harness, I don't know how it was handled in the stock arrangement. There had to be some kind of circuit protection, just don't know what or where until I look at the book.
If not that, though, then it'll be the relay, short, or a bad ground somewhere -- those should be the only things that could fail and kill both windows. It's a pretty simple arrangement.
If not that, though, then it'll be the relay, short, or a bad ground somewhere -- those should be the only things that could fail and kill both windows. It's a pretty simple arrangement.
thatfnthing- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 65
Re: Automatic windows
Okay, the 75 FB manual says the motors each have a built-in circuit breaker for protection, so unless both have failed at the same time, that ain't it.
So I'd give a hard look at the relay, which (according to the manual) should be located "on the left shroud side panel" -- the not-too-specific diagram puts it in the vicinity of your emergency brake. It should have 3 wires coming out of it:
- 18ga pink (ignition trigger)
- 12ga orange/black (12v from "source", which is probably fuse panel)
- 12ga red/white (12v to window switches/motors)
Tests:
1. Use a meter to check for 12V at the ORG/BLK wire. If it reads zero, there's no feed coming from wherever that wire leads to (manual doesn't say, so it could be fuse panel, ignition switch, or horn relay).
2. With ignition switch ON, test PINK wire. If zero, there is no feed coming from the ignition switch to activate the relay. Again, manual is not specific as to where this comes from, but it will be either a fuse or the ignition switch itself.
3. If PINK wire shows volts, with ignition switch ON, test RED/WHT wire. If zero, bad relay.
Hope this helps!
So I'd give a hard look at the relay, which (according to the manual) should be located "on the left shroud side panel" -- the not-too-specific diagram puts it in the vicinity of your emergency brake. It should have 3 wires coming out of it:
- 18ga pink (ignition trigger)
- 12ga orange/black (12v from "source", which is probably fuse panel)
- 12ga red/white (12v to window switches/motors)
Tests:
1. Use a meter to check for 12V at the ORG/BLK wire. If it reads zero, there's no feed coming from wherever that wire leads to (manual doesn't say, so it could be fuse panel, ignition switch, or horn relay).
2. With ignition switch ON, test PINK wire. If zero, there is no feed coming from the ignition switch to activate the relay. Again, manual is not specific as to where this comes from, but it will be either a fuse or the ignition switch itself.
3. If PINK wire shows volts, with ignition switch ON, test RED/WHT wire. If zero, bad relay.
Hope this helps!
thatfnthing- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 65
Re: Automatic windows
Thank you! I will try that first thing in the morning
lownslow75- G3GM Newbie
- Street Cred : 0
Re: Automatic windows
Something else occurs to me. That relay grounds through its metal housing, which is why there's not a fourth wire coming out of it. Check for corrosion on the metal relay housing or where it bolts to. If there's a bad ground, the relay will never trigger and your windows don't work even if all the other wires test out. If there's corrosion, sand the crap out of everything and try it again.
thatfnthing- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 65
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