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my current project

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Joe73
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Post by 77mali Mon Nov 03, 2014 6:41 pm

C'mon John- trailer it to the track! (U-Haul!)

LOL

Glad you got it worked out!
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Post by dynchel Mon Nov 03, 2014 9:32 pm

When I hit the lottery I'll buy a trailer....lol[size=32]. [/size]Beer
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Post by bigredlaguna Mon Nov 03, 2014 9:45 pm

If you could mount a go pro camera under there, it would be interesting to see what is going on under there, with and without the extra hardware. Congratulations on the victory over wheel hop.
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Post by dynchel Tue Nov 04, 2014 7:46 pm

bigredlaguna wrote:If you could mount a go pro camera under there, it would be interesting to see what is going on under there, with and without the extra hardware. Congratulations on the victory over wheel hop.
Thanks, all I can figure (assume) is the torque was climbing the ring gear & unloading the tires.  Nothing else should have been able to move (flex) enough to cause a problem.
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Post by bigredlaguna Wed Nov 05, 2014 12:03 am

I bet the suspension geometry you have due to the ride height and the rate of the springs were making your IC dance above and below the anti-squat line when under full throttle.

The no-hop bars effectively fixed this by moving the IC to the point of contact with the frame and above the anti-squat line, giving more than 100% lift and reducing the upper arms function to nothing more than a watts link.
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Post by dynchel Wed Nov 05, 2014 10:16 am

bigredlaguna wrote:I bet the suspension geometry you have due to the ride height and the rate of the springs were making your IC dance above and below the anti-squat line when under full throttle.

The no-hop bars effectively fixed this by moving the IC to the point of contact with the frame and above the anti-squat line, giving more than 100% lift and reducing the upper arms function to nothing more than a watts link.

The only problem i see with this theory is that it hopped with stock replacement springs, the change to station wagon springs raised the height, but the hop seemed to stay the same.  Since the car has slot mags & side pipes i think the higher stance suits the car better anyway.  I 100% agree about why the bars fixed the problem though.  thanks everyone who threw in  their .002 http://www.thirdgen.
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Post by Joe73 Wed Nov 05, 2014 11:35 am

Did you ever try a different set of tires in the rear??
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Post by dynchel Wed Nov 05, 2014 1:32 pm

Yeah, I went from old eagle st's 245/60/15 to 235/60/15 Kelly chargers (also old).  Finally I bought a new pair of 295/50/15 mastercraft avenger gt's.
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Post by jerry46765 Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:04 pm

dynchel wrote:
bigredlaguna wrote:I bet the suspension geometry you have due to the ride height and the rate of the springs were making your IC dance above and below the anti-squat line when under full throttle.

The no-hop bars effectively fixed this by moving the IC to the point of contact with the frame and above the anti-squat line, giving more than 100% lift and reducing the upper arms function to nothing more than a watts link.

The only problem i see with this theory is that it hopped with stock replacement springs, the change to station wagon springs raised the height, but the hop seemed to stay the same.  Since the car has slot mags & side pipes i think the higher stance suits the car better anyway.  I 100% agree about why the bars fixed the problem though.  thanks everyone who threw in  their .002 http://www.thirdgen.

I guess we will never know.
Something is moving more than it should if slapper bars have stopped wheel hop.

Enjoy it before we get snow.

Thanks -

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Post by dynchel Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:08 pm

It was a weird feeling to floor it, get a chirp ( not a hopping burnout) and foward motion.
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Post by chevellelaguna Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:18 pm

Glad the bars helped solve the wheel hop issues. Burnouts are always fun, I've never had wheel hop problems, all it really does is slide sideways depending on the crown of the road. Always fun to see the looks on the peoples faces next to me as the car creeps sideways towards their car.
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Post by dynchel Thu Nov 06, 2014 3:28 pm

chevellelaguna wrote:Glad the bars helped solve the wheel hop issues. Burnouts are always fun, I've never had wheel hop problems, all it really does is slide sideways depending on the crown of the road. Always fun to see the looks on the peoples faces next to me as the car creeps sideways towards their car.
Do you have a posi?  I never had a problem with it until I installed the locker.  I went from 30 foot "one wheel peel" to a 15 foot hopping burnout.  Now no wheel spin just a chirp and go.
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Post by thatfnthing Thu Nov 06, 2014 4:30 pm

chevellelaguna wrote: Always fun to see the looks on the peoples faces next to me as the car creeps sideways towards their car.

I thought you looked familiar. Smile
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Post by chevellelaguna Thu Nov 06, 2014 9:22 pm

Yeah it's a posi with 3:42 gears, big drums...the diff came out of a 75 Monte Carlo. Was an open 2:73 I installed a posi unit and the gears, have poly bushings and boxed the upper control arms, have a sway bar. 295/60/16" BFG's. Never had wheel hop issues, it just squats and goes. Can do massive burnouts as long as you want, or slow ones...till there's nothing left of the tires. I did however have a vibration issue at around 70mph, which took several attempts to diagnose to finally being that the bolts backed off of the trans bell housing (th350) I checked pinion angle ( cause I lowered the car significantly) I checked the rims, balanced the tires, had a new driveshaft made, had it re balanced, changed the trans mount, the vibration never went away, was a dull droning sound that you could feel through the entire car at around 70, then it would go away at higher speeds. The trans had loosened off of the block, and ended in a catastrophic explosion at around 90mph. That's when I took it off the road to go thru the entire car.
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Post by dynchel Thu Nov 06, 2014 9:52 pm

I took it out to Chris (1973 454 Monte)s house today.  It was running great & I did a few hop free hole shots.  I hate problems that are hard to diagnose.  I researched wheel hop several times & thought I had all bases covered. (Some things I did more than once ie 3 sets of shochs, and 3 sets of rear coils) it finally took add on bars to fix it.  I'm just glad it is fixed before putting it away for the winter. santa
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Post by chevellelaguna Thu Nov 06, 2014 10:10 pm

That's an awesome feeling, letting it fly and it just hooks or smokes the tires without that shuddering and the ensuing visit to the dentist when all your fillings rattle outta your head! I had valve train stability issues where I was breaking rocker studs and bending pushrods, two twisted driveshafts and one broken u joint. Always more fun when you solve the problem to make it fun and reliable to drive, but you do get to a point where one thing certainly affects many more things.
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Post by bracketchev1221 Fri Nov 07, 2014 3:40 am

dynchel wrote:It was a weird feeling to floor it, get a chirp ( not a hopping burnout) and foward motion.

Just needs more horsepower now. Just keep going until the rear breaks. The 8.5 can hold a decent amount. What converter do you have in it?
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Post by dynchel Fri Nov 07, 2014 7:25 am

The converter is a Coan with (iirc) 2000 stall speed.  Its been in there since the trans was prefornance rebuilt in the Late '90's.  I was wondering about rear end  breakage, I have read the 8.5 is second strongest (after the 12 bolt).  My 305 headed 350 probably makes a little south of 300 h/p so I'm guessing it should be fine.


Last edited by dynchel on Fri Nov 07, 2014 8:02 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : added details)
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Post by chevellelaguna Fri Nov 07, 2014 4:14 pm

The 8.5 rear can handle a lot of abuse, I've pounded on mine without any issue. Have a 12.5:1 355 with a 3,000 stall. I've run slicks, done tons of reverse 180's, burnouts, hole shots, neutral drops and still Haven't grenaded a rear!
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Post by dynchel Thu Feb 26, 2015 1:38 pm

I just acquired a dual snorkel air cleaner from a 1975 corvette for my '74.  I got it for the starting bid of $125.00 from eBay.   Here it is test fitted, just needed a riser to lift it up to clear the linkage.  I acquired a full lid since I don't have the (non existent) OE cowl hood for a '74 Malibu.my current project - Page 4 IMG_20150223_163116614_HDR_zpswzoirgve
The plan is to paint it gloss black, & add the "keep your gm car all gm" sticker. I bought a new chrome lid & a crossed flag big block style decal with the 350 engine designation.my current project - Page 4 Received_1424821767810433_zpsra2xl9sg
I am considering painting the inside of the snorkels bright red to compliment the red MSD box & wires.
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Post by thatfnthing Thu Feb 26, 2015 2:41 pm

Very nice!
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Post by 77mali Thu Feb 26, 2015 4:04 pm

Dang son! Good deal.
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Post by Dinomyte Wed Mar 04, 2015 12:40 pm

Looks very slick. I like the idea of painting the inside of the snorkels.
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Post by dynchel Wed Mar 04, 2015 12:49 pm

Thanks, I saw a picture of it done. The red would compliment the msd wires ,cap ,& ignition box.
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Post by pila Thu Mar 05, 2015 4:17 am

Great looking engine compartment !! Very Happy

The 8.5 rear end in my '77 Elco took a lot of abuse behind a built 408 SBC. Only thing that happened to it was axles & axle bearings would get bad, and had to be replaced twice.

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