roof rail and weatherstrip install

by Memphis73Chevelle Sat Sep 07, 2013 3:31 pm

Can someone tell me what hardware (screws) I will need to install roof rail...and is there any tech info for installing roof rail weatherstrip?

Thanks

by dynchel Sat Sep 07, 2013 8:07 pm

I seem to remember them being real short (maybe 1/2 inch long) sheet metal screws. The weatherstripping was then glued into the channel. It's pretty straight foward (if you have the correct stuff)

by cees klumper Tue Sep 10, 2013 4:23 pm

X2 on the short aheet metal screws; nothing special as I recall.
I installed new weather strips without any glue, the fit into the channels was tight enough to do without.

by pila Tue Sep 10, 2013 8:41 pm

Those screws have an odd semi-flat head, but I used some truss-head 1/2" sheet metal screws in place of some of the originals that I lost !
The truss head is a shallow round head by the way.......
I used glue on my W/S , specially on the ends.....

by Memphis73Chevelle Tue Sep 10, 2013 8:49 pm

Is there any way someone can put a pic of their weatherstrip installed, finish last night but it doesnt look right. Window will not roll all the way up either... confused

by Mcarlo77 Tue Sep 10, 2013 9:19 pm

I don't know if these help. Too much light reflection from flash, I think. Anyway, first pic is of the back end...second of the front end. These are originals...factory installed.

There has been all kinds of discussion regarding poor fitment of some aftermarket roof rail weatherstrips. Yours may fall under that category and maybe others on here who have dealt with them can shed some light as to how to combat it.

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roof rail and weatherstrip install Monter10

roof rail and weatherstrip install Monter11

by Memphis73Chevelle Tue Sep 10, 2013 9:45 pm

Thanks exactly what I needed

by Wallyuph Wed Sep 11, 2013 9:36 am

I have soft seal brand I installed 3 years ago. They are nice but my window will still not roll all the way up it stops about a 1/4" from going all the way up. I have power windows that are stock for the car. If I open the door they go right up no problem. If I luge the seals they will slide up. I have adjusted the glass several times to try and help if I get it to far tilted out then it leaks. I have stored it in the winters with the windows up and for the first few weeks they roll up fine but if I leave the windows down while parked for a week or so in side. back to same problem. I share this so you know it depends on the gasket.
MCarlo77 has the stock original gaskets and they are way softer than mine.
Here are some photos of mine with the windows being up. If left down for a while you will not see the "inverted dent line" from the glass at all like it shows now it will just be a flat foam no glass groove.

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by dynchel Wed Sep 11, 2013 9:47 am

Mine does the same thing and the weather stripping is ten years old. I think I bought mine from the JC Whitney catalog, probably not the highest quality stuff.

by Mcarlo77 Wed Sep 11, 2013 10:44 am

Wally is correct in that the factory original w/s is a soft density sponge that easily conforms to the glass when it's rolled up. Even the later GM NOS replacements were a little firmer and didn't have the smooth skin that the originals had. Fortunately, I had the opportunity to purchase a set of NOS originals for both my cars...figuring it would save a lot of frustration down the road.

by thatfnthing Wed Sep 11, 2013 10:47 am

I bought mine from Metro, and they're not quite that stiff, though they are not as soft as stock. With manual windows I suffered with the same problem as Wally, but with power windows there's enough torque to roll them all the way up with no trouble.

by Wallyuph Wed Sep 11, 2013 11:05 am

Maybe my Power windows are tired they go up a lot slower than going down. I just crack the door open roll them up and pull hard on the door. buy the way in driving rain my pass side leaks at the top rear corner. I carry small towels to keep wiping it off the leather as my door panels are not stock just the top metal retainer for window rubber was reused the rest of may panels are custom made. I have adjusted the window/ door over and over. Was not the greatest design to start with.

by thatfnthing Wed Sep 11, 2013 1:54 pm

My p/w are the same way: slow up, rocket-speed down. I suspect it has to do with the weight of the glass. When I had manuals, I did the same thing as you -- crack the door, roll it up, slam the door. Tried all kinds of adjustments and found out just how important that odd metal tab is on the top of the roof rail for catching the window just right and pulling it in, but never found a solution.

I always wondered if a heat gun could be used to address the issue: close it all up tight then play the heat gun ever-so-lightly across the weatherstripping to soften them up enough to conform to the window, and then maybe it would hold the shape when it cooled. I was working up the nerve to try it (obviously not wanting to ruin a set) when I upgraded to p/w and it saved my bacon. Smile

by Wallyuph Wed Sep 11, 2013 4:42 pm

I don't think the heat gun will work. I have a really old tube of pure silicone that a friend gave me. It was made for window rubber weather strip. If looks like Vaseline. He said they used to use it on all new car prep. The body shop guys hate it as its fish-eye problem big time. If i put a little on I have no problem but it does slime up the leading edges of the glass.

by Memphis73Chevelle Wed Sep 11, 2013 11:14 pm

I have the soft seal also...glad its not just me

by Fishgrinder Thu Sep 12, 2013 3:36 am

Experiencing the same with my aftermarkets. Too much friction to roll the windows all the way up with the door closed, and it even takes some power to close the doors. On the drivers side I used to layers of butyl by mistake, one behind the channel, and one behind the chrome trim, so it probably builds out more than it should.

I also have a small gap between the window and weatherstrip at the lower rear of the door. But they are water tight.

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roof rail and weatherstrip install DSCF3457

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