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G3GM 1973 to 1977 A-bodys. Chevelles, Monte Carlos, El Caminos, Laguna, 442, Cutlass, Malibu, GTO, LeMans, Century, Regal, Grand Am, Grand Prix, Sprint, Gran Sport, Can Am, Hurst-olds, and other 73-77 A-bodies


Aftermarket connecting rods

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G3GM :: G3 Tech :: Engine & Driveline

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Aftermarket connecting rods Empty Aftermarket connecting rods

Post by Sinister Thu Apr 12, 2012 6:37 pm

Looking for opinions on a set of BBC Forged connecting rods.
Tons of companies offer the I beam style forgings.
Are they all the same?
Made oversees?
Do they still have NOS new H beam Gm available?
I'm sure of the original GM quality,as many have lasted many,many years.
Not so confident in today's cost cutting everywhere I look.
Thanks.
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Post by 77mali Thu Apr 12, 2012 7:32 pm

This is one area you don't want to skimp on. The company that helped me with my top end work uses only Scat products for bottom end components related to the crankshaft.
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Post by pila Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:26 pm

Not knowing all the the good ones out there, I would go with Scat or Eagle, unless you can spring for a set from Callies. Sort of depends on how much power you plan on. If I were doing a big block, I would be talking to Summit Racing about what's available, that's made in the US & not on the Pacific rim. And their tech guys are knowledgeable.

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Post by Sinister Thu Apr 12, 2012 10:16 pm

I'm not going crazy with my build,but forged parts are not that much more money.
I see guys spending big bucks on electronics,and fuel injection,and running hyper kinetic stuff.
I want old school,nothing fancy,forged bottom end.
I bought a cast steel crank for my Pontiac 455,from eagle,and was happy with the quality,but the car has not been on the road yet,unsure of the lifespan.
I'd like to put the motor together once and have it last a lifetime.
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Post by 74Malibu383 Fri Apr 13, 2012 1:20 am

Assuming you are talking about Hypereutectic pistons. Hypereutectic pistons are just a stronger metal, but are still cast. If you want big power, you have to go with an entire forged rotating assembly.
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Post by Sinister Fri Apr 13, 2012 8:29 am

X2-exactly where I'm going. Thumbs up
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Post by pila Sat Apr 14, 2012 1:01 am

If you should decide to add a shot of nitros later on, forged pistons will likely live longer.
For a mild rebuild, the nodular crank will work OK. If you want to get in the 600 HP range, a complete forged rotating assembly ( balanced) is the one that will live.

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