74Malibu383 Build
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G3GM :: Media :: G3 Project Pictures
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Re: 74Malibu383 Build
Looking good can't wait to see that thing on the street
McCauley5983- G3GM Enthusiast
- Street Cred : 14
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
Sorry for the crappy photos... It doesn't do the paint justice. The firewall and EVERY other part was wet-sanded after the primer coat was shot.
Core Support
Brake Booster - Probably have 3 hours in sanding, priming, wetsanding, and painting this damn thing.
Core Support
Brake Booster - Probably have 3 hours in sanding, priming, wetsanding, and painting this damn thing.
74Malibu383- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 26
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
Looks great. What brand did you end up using for the paint? Looks like semi-gloss?
(BTW- don't forget about the little gasket behind the booster.)
(BTW- don't forget about the little gasket behind the booster.)
77mali- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 62
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
It's Hot Rod Flatz Black from TPC Global.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksflatz.aspx?gclid=CPv4ncP-qq8CFWcZQgod_wohWQ
Already got the gasket! Thanks!
http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksflatz.aspx?gclid=CPv4ncP-qq8CFWcZQgod_wohWQ
Already got the gasket! Thanks!
74Malibu383- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 26
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
Built 383 with all Forged Internals. Redline 7500. Max Boost 16PSI.
Built 4L80E with billet input/intermediate shafts - Should be good to 1000hp.
Built 4L80E with billet input/intermediate shafts - Should be good to 1000hp.
74Malibu383- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 26
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
JiMi_DRiX wrote:Hot damn.... thats looks goooooooood!!
Agreed!
77mali- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 62
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
Very, very nice ! The 4L80E will handle a LOT of power, so not likely any problem there !
pila- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 43
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
Global West Upper and Lower Control Arms with QA-1 adjustable coil-overs
Upper: CTA-37A
1. Increased Caster with 5-1/2 degrees of positive caster built into the control arm, straight line stability and corner entry is dramatically improved.
2. Camber curve is improved for high speed maneuvering.
3. Special bump stop mounted on the cross brace provides full drop protection for the ball joints.
Lower: CTA-37H
1. Doubling plates are used in the loaded areas where the shock bolts to the arm.
2. Cross tubes support the loaded shock mounting area and outside main tubes.
3. The sway bar mounting plate adds support to the ball joint area.
4. Straps are used around the bushing housings strengthening the housing to the tube.
Upper: CTA-37A
1. Increased Caster with 5-1/2 degrees of positive caster built into the control arm, straight line stability and corner entry is dramatically improved.
2. Camber curve is improved for high speed maneuvering.
3. Special bump stop mounted on the cross brace provides full drop protection for the ball joints.
Lower: CTA-37H
1. Doubling plates are used in the loaded areas where the shock bolts to the arm.
2. Cross tubes support the loaded shock mounting area and outside main tubes.
3. The sway bar mounting plate adds support to the ball joint area.
4. Straps are used around the bushing housings strengthening the housing to the tube.
74Malibu383- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 26
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
Where the heck is the drool emot on here????
:-P........
:-P........
77mali- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 62
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
77mali wrote:Where the heck is the drool emot on here????
:-P........
OH BUT WE DO and then some LOL
Limey SE- Management
- Street Cred : 98
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
74Malibu383 wrote:Global West Upper and Lower Control Arms with QA-1 adjustable coil-overs
Upper: CTA-37A
1. Increased Caster with 5-1/2 degrees of positive caster built into the control arm, straight line stability and corner entry is dramatically improved.
2. Camber curve is improved for high speed maneuvering.
3. Special bump stop mounted on the cross brace provides full drop protection for the ball joints.
Lower: CTA-37H
1. Doubling plates are used in the loaded areas where the shock bolts to the arm.
2. Cross tubes support the loaded shock mounting area and outside main tubes.
3. The sway bar mounting plate adds support to the ball joint area.
4. Straps are used around the bushing housings strengthening the housing to the tube.
Limey SE- Management
- Street Cred : 98
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
77mali wrote:LOL- you just added that!!
Who me I am Innocent LMAO
Limey SE- Management
- Street Cred : 98
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
Been working on the car EVERY night. Just haven't had time to post progress.
Bent new brake lines, and rewired the entire engine compartment. Loomed everything in braided loom.
Bent new brake lines, and rewired the entire engine compartment. Loomed everything in braided loom.
74Malibu383- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 26
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
77mali wrote:LOL- you just added that!!
its been there for a couple of months already
1973 454 MONTE- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 36
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
Real nice job...hard work pays off for sure.
Were did you get the wire looms from? They look great.
Were did you get the wire looms from? They look great.
77mali- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 62
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
Superb workmanship on that project. Thanks for the pics !!
pila- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 43
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
Man... it's been a long time since I've been on here. Got the car done back in June and took it on Power Tour. Been swamped at work since. Here are a few more photos...
In order to install the 4L80E, I had to move the crossmember back. Unfortunately, the stock one hits the floor before it can move back far enough to bolt up correctly. So... out it went, and I made this one. 2"x4" square tubing with 1/4" thick round tubing for the exhaust passages. I cut off the ends of my stock crossmember to save some time...
Once installed, my buddy and I made up the new exhaust by cutting up some 3" mandrel U bends. I cut off the 3 bolt collectors on the headers and went with band clamps. The photo shows the bolts on the bottom, but that was just for mock up. Final install puts them above the exhaust, so no more worrying about scraping speed bumps. Also decided to weld three bolt collectors between the mufflers and front exhaust section to allow easy removal of the main section. Took a while, but came out nice. Still need to take it all back out and sand/paint. Just didn't have enough time to do so before Power Tour.
Exhaust - Went with Spintech's this time. Love them!
Used a 3" hole saw on his mill to notch the H-Pipe:
In order to install the 4L80E, I had to move the crossmember back. Unfortunately, the stock one hits the floor before it can move back far enough to bolt up correctly. So... out it went, and I made this one. 2"x4" square tubing with 1/4" thick round tubing for the exhaust passages. I cut off the ends of my stock crossmember to save some time...
Once installed, my buddy and I made up the new exhaust by cutting up some 3" mandrel U bends. I cut off the 3 bolt collectors on the headers and went with band clamps. The photo shows the bolts on the bottom, but that was just for mock up. Final install puts them above the exhaust, so no more worrying about scraping speed bumps. Also decided to weld three bolt collectors between the mufflers and front exhaust section to allow easy removal of the main section. Took a while, but came out nice. Still need to take it all back out and sand/paint. Just didn't have enough time to do so before Power Tour.
Exhaust - Went with Spintech's this time. Love them!
Used a 3" hole saw on his mill to notch the H-Pipe:
74Malibu383- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 26
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
Looks awesome man.
What purpose does the bracket serve around the drive-shaft by the trans- is that a "just in case" provision?
What purpose does the bracket serve around the drive-shaft by the trans- is that a "just in case" provision?
77mali- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 62
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
Looks like a low profile driveshaft safety loop. Good thing to have. I run one. I dropped my shaft twice.
Joe73- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 83
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
Yup - Driveshaft safety loop. I originally put it in 6 years ago with the stock driveshaft and everything was fine. Unfortunately, when I stepped up to the 3.5" shaft it started rubbing. It's out of the car now, and I'm making a new one. Going to try and make one that looks a little better.
74Malibu383- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 26
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
Cargasm!!!!74Malibu383 wrote:Man... it's been a long time since I've been on here. Got the car done back in June and took it on Power Tour. Been swamped at work since. Here are a few more photos...
In order to install the 4L80E, I had to move the crossmember back. Unfortunately, the stock one hits the floor before it can move back far enough to bolt up correctly. So... out it went, and I made this one. 2"x4" square tubing with 1/4" thick round tubing for the exhaust passages. I cut off the ends of my stock crossmember to save some time...
Once installed, my buddy and I made up the new exhaust by cutting up some 3" mandrel U bends. I cut off the 3 bolt collectors on the headers and went with band clamps. The photo shows the bolts on the bottom, but that was just for mock up. Final install puts them above the exhaust, so no more worrying about scraping speed bumps. Also decided to weld three bolt collectors between the mufflers and front exhaust section to allow easy removal of the main section. Took a while, but came out nice. Still need to take it all back out and sand/paint. Just didn't have enough time to do so before Power Tour.
Exhaust - Went with Spintech's this time. Love them!
Used a 3" hole saw on his mill to notch the H-Pipe:
Malicruiser- G3GM Member
- Street Cred : 7
Re: 74Malibu383 Build
I see its an older thread but may i ask what brand and part number your headers are and if you are happy with them?
carcass- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 2
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G3GM :: Media :: G3 Project Pictures
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