DASH PAD AND DASH REMOVAL FOR 1973-1977 CHEVELLE, MONTE CARLO AND MOST OTHERS

#1. first and foremost DIS-CONNECT THE BATTERY......i didnt have to worry about that part my motor is out LOL

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#2.there a total of 13 screws to remove the gauge bezels(you also must very carefully remove the clock setting knob)it comes off separate from the cluster ...........................................

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#3. there a total 4 screws and two nuts holding the cluster in (the two nuts are 9 or 10mm nuts)and to remove the speedo cable from behind the cluster is a spring loaded clip push up or down (DON'T PUSH TO HARD IT WILL SNAP) then remove gently for you don't rip the circuit the connection for the electrical workings of the cluster ..................................................

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#4.pull gently with a little strength it will just slide out after that..................(HOPEFULLY YOU ARE BAGGING AND TAGGING AT THIS POINT IF NOT DO IT FOR MOST OF SCREWS ARE DIFFERENT SIZES AND HAVE TO GO BACK IN PROPER SPOT OR YOU WILL FRY YOUR DASH PAD( YES I SAID PAD, FOR THE ONES I SEEN ALL ARE TWO PIECES UP TO A 76 I SEEN HAVE TWO PIECES)

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#5.Like Kyle already mentioned there are 2 bolts on each side one going up one going out.......remove both(that releases the frame the holds the pad and dash together) then once you get both sides out pull forward gently you will a phillip's head screw (that must come all the way out and removed,keep all these in a separate bag from rest they are different once again) then remove the glove box door (4 screws) remove ashtray (2 screw's) AND REMEMBER THE 4 SCREWS 2 ON A SIDE FOR THE DEFROSTER VENTS BY WINDSHIELD (AGAIN LENGTH CRUCIAL) .

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#6 there about 12 to 14 ----- 1/4" head screws that go up into bottom of dash pad (Keep separate also these are length crucial)

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#7 take the 4 bolt's out that hold the steering column in(let the steering column hang there)

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#8 there are 4 more bolts that hold the dash to the steering column frame (THESE MUST COME OUT ALSO,again keep separate)

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#9 the heater controls are next very carefully (PULL AND LABEL THE SPAGETTI FOR THE HEAT/AIR CONTROLS YOU MUST DO THIS FOR YOU DON'T FORGET ITS A HEADACHE TO FIX CORRECTLY)

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#10 You can start inch your dash pad forward it will separate from the dash assy, there a few odd and end screws you will discover for the vents you will have to remove as you pull the dash pad forward, take your time on these THEY ARE VERY BRITTLE !!!! don't forget to disconnect the tubes for the air/vents

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#11 when all the screws and such are removed there are two little clips slide in type one on each side of dash pad they are almost to the edge of dash pad (about one inch over from side of vehicle)

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ANY OTHER QUESTIONS EMAIL DIRECTLY AT bigboyztoyz42@aol.com or pm me for my home phone

Thanks goon, some a-hole told me it was one piece... That is when i knew he was a idiot.

are 2 pieces

hydro yours might be one piece brother, i have seen 3 1973's now with the one piece dash..................the only difference for removal will be the screw's separating the dash pad and the actual dash so saves time there at least

No some guy told me the dash and pad are one piece, he lived next door till his old A$$ went to a home.

if your objective is to get the whole dash out, there is no need to take it apart- there are only like 6 bolts holding the whole damn thing in the car. this is how GM put the car together- the dash came as an assembly from an outside contractor, and a lineworker or two put the whole works in as the car slid by on the line.
just remember to reach up under the dash and unhook the speedo cable, vacuum lines and cables from the heater controls, and unscrew the fusebox from the firewall, and it all comes out in about 15 minutes.

Check out this guy. He's got a '74 Chevelle, with a Grand-Am Dash & Console. He didn't do the swap. He bought it this way.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/566156/3

Who'da thunk it?

Thanks for the info. I just printed it out for future referance. JB

thanks, this is good info helped a lot.

OK I'll bite. Do you know where to get a replacement. Mine has a plastic cover on it. Looks OK but would like a real pad. Thanks

http://www.g3gm.com/t3657-dash-restoration-i-need-another-option?highlight=dash
Shows examples of different ideas we have come up with such as leather covering & fiberglass. Might also contact "1973 454 Monte" to see if he has any lying around. He did have several.

http://www.dashboardrestorations.com/
Ask "HDHUGGER" for her opinion.

http://www.justdashes.com/
Ask member "74Malibu383" for his opinion.

If you dig, there are a few threads on dashes, dash pads, dash renewals, etc.

Just Dashes - Just Pricey - Just Perfect

All kidding aside, you get what you pay for. Beautiful job.

So if I understand this right, you have to get the dash out just to remove the pad at step 6?

Yes. The top pad is connected to the lower frame by 3 fasteners each @ the 2 metal brackets that fasten the entire dash assembly to the frame.

Also, if you have A/C it's critical to disconnect the center vent duct prior to pulling out the dash. There are 4 small bolts attaching the duct along the perimeter on inside of the dash (top side). It must then be removed from the A/C housing @ the bottom. Miss this step & It will break when you pull the dash off the car. {step 10 above}

Ugh.. Ok. I started on it last night and I may just use the whole dash from a 77 I just bought and fiberglass/paint it while in transition. Mine is cracking and bowed everywhere.

Also, what I didn't see mentioned...the speedo cable is held to the speedometer with a spring clip that has to be released in order to get the cable loose/off.....