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i want this automatic gone. 4 speed please

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i want this automatic gone. 4 speed please Empty i want this automatic gone. 4 speed please

Post by McCauley5983 Sun Sep 12, 2010 12:39 am

wanted to convert my car from column automatic to 4 on the floor preferably a muncie. want to know all of whats involved like column, pedals, floorboard hump.etc.plus would like to know were to get parts for the swap and what will work. any and all help would be greatly appreciated not going to do it immediately (atleast a year or two from now) but want to start gathering parts now
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i want this automatic gone. 4 speed please Empty Re: i want this automatic gone. 4 speed please

Post by Limey SE Sun Sep 12, 2010 1:47 am

KIT INCLUDES PEDALS, Z-BAR, PEDAL TO Z-BAR ROD, CLUTCH FORK BOOT, CLUTCH FORK, CLUTCH ROD BOOT & RETAINER, PUSH ROD, ENGINE BALL STUD, SPRINGS, Z-BAR BRACKETS, SPRING CLIPS, AND NYLON WASHERS - TRANSMISSION SOLD SEPARATELY
Product Name Price Quantity
MT5798V (1973 - 1977 Chevelle ) 4-SPEED CONVERSION KIT
$289.00.............The Parts Place Inc.
217 Paul St.
Elburn, IL 60119
www.thepartsplaceinc.com
630-365-1800

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1977 Chevelle SE x2
One Mild original
one Wild NON original
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i want this automatic gone. 4 speed please Empty Re: i want this automatic gone. 4 speed please

Post by Limey SE Sun Sep 12, 2010 2:00 am

you will need a hump from the closest I found was a 1972 73 nova 4 speed replacement hump prob bought at same place.

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i want this automatic gone. 4 speed please Empty Re: i want this automatic gone. 4 speed please

Post by McCauley5983 Sun Sep 12, 2010 7:33 pm

do you know if i need to swap out the tranny crossmember
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i want this automatic gone. 4 speed please Empty Re: i want this automatic gone. 4 speed please

Post by G3NUT Sun Sep 12, 2010 7:53 pm

billy-ray wrote:do you know if i need to swap out the tranny crossmember

No, yours will work.
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i want this automatic gone. 4 speed please Empty Re: i want this automatic gone. 4 speed please

Post by McCauley5983 Sun Sep 12, 2010 8:19 pm

then what are the differences between the muncies i know the m22 is best but is also most expensive and i know that they all use the same case so converting a m20 m21 to an m22 is possible
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i want this automatic gone. 4 speed please Empty Re: i want this automatic gone. 4 speed please

Post by G3NUT Sun Sep 12, 2010 8:35 pm

m20 muncie is a wide ratio and uses the same yoke as a th350.
m21 is a close ratio and uses the same yoke as a th350 also...but i have seen them with the th400 yoke.
The m22 is a close ratio and uses the bigger th 400 style yoke. nicknamed the stone crusher because that's what it souds like when your driving because of the staight cut gears that it uses.
The m22 is the strongest and the most expensive.
You don't need a m22. a m21 would work just fine
or a borg warner super t-10.
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Post by McCauley5983 Sun Sep 12, 2010 9:27 pm

gonna stay with atleast a 308 gearing have 273 in it now i know gearing makes a difference too
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Post by McCauley5983 Sun Sep 12, 2010 9:30 pm

and where do i drill out for the pedals and dont i need a bracket to hold the pedals
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Post by G3NUT Sun Sep 12, 2010 10:02 pm

billy-ray wrote:gonna stay with atleast a 308 gearing have 273 in it now i know gearing makes a difference too

Check out this link
http://www.yearone.com/updatedsinglepages/id_info/muncie.asp
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i want this automatic gone. 4 speed please Empty Re: i want this automatic gone. 4 speed please

Post by McCauley5983 Sun Sep 12, 2010 10:09 pm

so according to that they want me too run a wide ratio trans with the tall gear. do you know why? and what exactly is the diference between a close ratio and a wide ratio
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Post by G3NUT Sun Sep 12, 2010 10:12 pm

billy-ray wrote:and where do i drill out for the pedals and dont i need a bracket to hold the pedals

you can use the auto pedal bracket over again.
Just remove the auto pedal from the bracket by removing the thru bolt. and then install the manual pedals in it's place.
after you install the bracket assembly back into the car you can determine where to drill the hole for the firewall feed thru rod.
get under the dash with a light and look real carefully in the area where the rod will go thru the firewall because there might be a small indent in the firewall. or the firewall insulation might have a dotted circle in that area.
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Post by McCauley5983 Sun Sep 12, 2010 10:17 pm

thanks these are the things i need to know so i really appreciate it seems easier then it sounds
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Post by G3NUT Sun Sep 12, 2010 10:21 pm

billy-ray wrote:so according to that they want me too run a wide ratio trans with the tall gear. do you know why? and what exactly is the diference between a close ratio and a wide ratio


read the whole link that i posted and it will give you the answers.

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Post by G3NUT Sun Sep 12, 2010 10:26 pm

billy-ray wrote:thanks these are the things i need to know so i really appreciate it seems easier then it sounds
no problem.
i've converted a few of these third gens and it isn't hard at all.
the biggest problem i ran into was finding the right set of headers that fit with a manual trans.
I find that the hooker super comp headers work well. Smile
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Post by McCauley5983 Sun Sep 12, 2010 10:29 pm

what diference does it make if i put a close ratio trans with tall gears as opposed to a factory style wide ratio to tall gears other than faster acceleration. is there a downside to the close ratio tall gears
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Post by G3NUT Sun Sep 12, 2010 10:38 pm

your rpm's at crusing speed may differ between the 2
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Post by McCauley5983 Sun Sep 12, 2010 10:40 pm

but if 4th is direct drive in both then top end wont be affected so id get faster jump of the line and out of the turns with the close ratio and still get the same top speed right?
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Post by bigredlaguna Mon Sep 13, 2010 12:18 am

There is a bigger rpm drop between gears on a wide ratio transmission. A higher performance engines back then had a smaller sweet spot in the rpm range for optimum performance.

The wide ratio would drop the rpm too much when you shift gears, and the engine would be below its prime power band. So the factory made transmissions with less "spread" between the shifts.
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Post by McCauley5983 Mon Sep 13, 2010 12:20 am

thanks thats all i needed too know to select my transmission
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Post by The Dude Mon Sep 13, 2010 10:30 am

For the cost of finding a 30+ year old Muncie trans, why not just get a Richmond or Tremec 5 speed? Just curious.
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Post by McCauley5983 Mon Sep 13, 2010 10:33 pm

I found a guy who sells m20-m21 for 499 rebuilt with core. he also sells m22s for 1000 with core and ive seen a lot of them on craigslist for under a 1000 in good condition. priced richmonds and there like 2000 and the tremec is known for blowing second(cant handle the torque)
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Post by The Dude Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:55 am

Tremec T-5, yes, TKO....... I know a guy that's been running 11's for years in his Mustang with the same TKO 500. Been through 2 or 3 motors, but only one trans. I'm sure a TKO 500 is fine, but they also have a TKO 600 out too.

http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/3550_tko.html

Yes they are about $2k also, but a used one will pop up on eBay, RJ, or CL on occasion for about $5-700. If you are gonna be taking your time on this swap, might as well keep an eye out for all of your options.
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Post by McCauley5983 Tue Sep 14, 2010 8:53 pm

the cheapest tko ive seen on craigslist was 1200 bucks used dont like to buy off ebay because you never know what there selling you
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Post by G3NUT Thu Sep 23, 2010 7:54 pm

Hey billy-ray,
Are you still looking for 4 speed parts???

I just pulled the 454 and muncie from my car today to make room for my new engine/trans combo.
the engine and trans are allready sold.
But i do have all of the 4 speed linkage,shifter and linkage,floor hump,factory boot,console etc etc...
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