Re: 73 CHEVELLE SS PICS

by alleyball4 Fri Dec 28, 2012 3:38 pm

the block is OUTSIDE the wheels

by Joe73 Fri Dec 28, 2012 4:08 pm

This is how I did it the first time and it was quick and easy. You need (2) 9 or 10 foot 4x4 posts and (4) horses or a-frame ladders or some cement blocks.

Go under the car, remove all the body bolts, and anything else connected to the frame.

Remove the nose and rear bumper.

Have 2 guys grab the body at the trunk area and a third guy slides one of the 4x4's in between the body and frame right above the wheels. Let the body down.

Lay the second 4x4 on top of the cowl, where the wipers are. Take some straps or rope and tie around your door hinges and the 4x4 above it. Do that on both sides.

Have some guys on each side of the car by the rear wheels. They lift together while you slide some cement block or horses or the rung of a ladder under the ends of the 4x4. Let it down. Now the backs up in the air and clear of the frame.

Same thing on the front. Just lift together and place the 4x4 on a support. If for some reason the front is too heavy, just floor jack right under the engine and lift the whole frame until its high enough to put the supports under the 4x4s.

Now roll your chassis out. No dollies, no moving things around. Hardest part is unbolting the body bolts.

I've done 4 cars like this. Real easy and quick. I'll be taking pics and posting when I do mine again. I'll be using some cement block that I got off craigslist for free.

by alleyball4 Fri Dec 28, 2012 7:13 pm

Joe's right on the bolts .... a day or two before ... PB Blaster the body bushing bolts ... they usually are a bear to get loose. If that doesn't work, then you will have to heat them up with a propane torch.

If you have to maneuver your frame around in the garage like I have to ... the dollies were a God-send for me. Frames with just the wheels on, were tough to roll around ... especially when you have to turn ...

I don't have alot of manpower help like Joe does, so what I have to do is use a two engine hoists (borrow your buddies, if you don't have two) ... one on the front ... and one on the back, and lift the body up that way.

The last one I did, there was just two of us, and it didn't take long at all to do.

Take pictures however you do it, .. we love to see pictures of frame off's.

by Joe73 Fri Dec 28, 2012 7:21 pm

Cool. Another trick I saw on the web was guys were drilling a small hole on the top side of the bushing cavity. Top side meaning that small bump on the body side where the threads would be coming up. Same area that you would have to cut open if the bolt snaps off. PB blaster in there a couple of days before has been working well for some.

by G3NUT Sat Jan 19, 2013 1:46 pm

I had some time last night and got the suspension and brakes all back together. now i'm working on the fuel system. i dropped the shortblock off at the machine shop to get new rings,bearings, and rod bolts. i should have that back within a month or so.
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by 77mali Sat Jan 19, 2013 2:40 pm

Looks Pi$$er!

Is the gray & black frame segments welded together from the new one you got?

by G3NUT Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:14 pm

No that's just the way it's painted.
i only cut and welded the rear section of the frame.

by G3NUT Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:10 pm

Well i picked up the engine from the machine shop on thursday.
i ended up rebuilding the entire engine. new pistons, arp rod bolts,melling oil pump,double roller timing chain,texas speed 228 588 cam,ls6 heads also completely rebuilt with double springs, titanium retainers,comp cams trunnion upgades for the rockers, and weiand intake.
i put the engine in thursday night should hopefully have it running within the next couple of weeks.

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by 77mali Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:17 pm

Are you using a new cam too? I'm sure you probably know this already but when I read my Cam instructions it says to temporarily remove all the inner springs on the valves for break in purposes. No sure if the same principals apply to the LS motors but wanted to post the info just in case.

BTW- Looks awesome...Did you rebuild your 6 speed too? What shop did you use for the motor?, just curious.

by G3NUT Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:40 pm

77mali wrote:Are you using a new cam too? I'm sure you probably know this already but when I read my Cam instructions it says to temporarily remove all the inner springs on the valves for break in purposes. No sure if the same principals apply to the LS motors but wanted to post the info just in case.

BTW- Looks awesome...Did you rebuild your 6 speed too? What shop did you use for the motor?, just curious.

I've never read the cam instructions in my life Very Happy

... knock on wood...and never have had a problem. lol.
flat tappet cams require a break in procedure.
ls engines have roller cams no break in required. thanks for the info.
yeah 6 speed was also overhauled at the same time.
engine work was done by M&K engine service in woburn, ma. this guy is the best. he knows his sh#t when it comes to performance engines.

Hey i just remembered do you still want those shocks?

by 77mali Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:56 pm

Kris, I have been trying to get down your way since we spoke last...LOL

I have 3 days off next week & am breaking in my motor too. Maybe I can swing by on Weds or Thurs? I'll give you a call for sure. Thanks!

I should have got a roller cam set up- my only regret on the rebuild. I used R & L Engines in Dover, NH. They're pretty awesome too. I should have remembered that about the LS- Duh...Oh well, at least the thought was there. I'd hate to have anyone rebuild a motor & forget that little tidbit.

by G3NUT Sat Apr 06, 2013 9:01 pm

i appreciate the info dude!
give me a call when you want to stop by and i'll have them ready to go.

by Cale11 Tue May 07, 2013 3:02 pm

Very nice and tough looking Chevelle, I like the wheels you have on it, bet you look forward to the day them little kids have their licenses and want to drive it......

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