Re: Rusty's progress RUT ROH Dakota Dash is Next oh myyy lawwwwdddd LOL

by Limey SE Fri Apr 26, 2024 2:56 pm

bracketchev1221 wrote:Was his motor an oval port head motor too? I thought you had the 781 heads on yours.

Yes his was Oval he was running it on also why I didn't think much of it

by bracketchev1221 Sat Apr 27, 2024 12:25 pm

They’ll be fine then. I think the victor jr type eliminates the bolt between the intake runners. I want to use a rectangle port victor jr on my 496.

by Limey SE Sun May 12, 2024 11:39 pm

Yay Accomplished what I wanted and flexplate is being delivered tonight after the wrong one got sent and then had to argue with them that is was Used I said any Dumbass knows you dont put Washers on a Flex plate for any reason so yea It was a Used SO CALLED BRAND NEW One UHHHH NOPPPEEE

Have New flex plate now was delivered tonight and double-checked fitment before they left NOW RAIN FOR TWO DAYS shitttttt... Well any ways I got some stuff outta the way Only thing left is top dead center again since swapped Manifolds and Install fresh intake gaskets and seal her up for GOOD

Ran out of daylight for spark plug installment that's why wires just sitting there

Headers and gaskets on
Water pump on
Next is intake gaskets
Flexplate next
Then reinstall transmission progress is progress right ?

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by zucchi Mon May 13, 2024 8:37 am

Did you used the Nord-Lock Wedge-Locking washers on your header bolts?
Speaking for myself, constantly retightening my header bolts every couple months got old faster than organic non-GMO fruit. In the years since I went with the wedge-locking washers, I haven't needed to retighten my header or collector bolts.

I see you have a vacuum canister. Will you be using that to supplement just your brake booster or will it also supply vacuum to your AC and cruise control?

by Limey SE Mon May 13, 2024 7:43 pm

zucchi wrote:Did you used the Nord-Lock Wedge-Locking washers on your header bolts?
Speaking for myself, constantly retightening my header bolts every couple months got old faster than organic non-GMO fruit. In the years since I went with the wedge-locking washers, I haven't needed to retighten my header or collector bolts.

I see you have a vacuum canister. Will you be using that to supplement just your brake booster or will it also supply vacuum to your AC and cruise control?

Yes on locking header bolts I hate retighten retighten retightening there the summit branded Locking bolts

Vaccuum canister is to Supplement my brake booster for my cam is on the edge for needing one, so just bit the bullet was 20 Bucks shipped from a FB friend so figured cheap stopping insurance NO AC NO CRUISE

by zucchi Tue May 14, 2024 8:13 am

Limey SE wrote:NO CRUISE

I see the transducer in the photo. Do you ever intend on putting the system back into service?

by Limey SE Tue May 14, 2024 9:31 pm

zucchi wrote:
Limey SE wrote:NO CRUISE
I see the transducer in the photo. Do you ever intend on putting the system back into service?

nope and being pulled just heat motor and smile is all I need LOL

by zucchi Wed May 15, 2024 8:21 am

Limey SE wrote:
zucchi wrote:
Limey SE wrote:NO CRUISE
I see the transducer in the photo. Do you ever intend on putting the system back into service?

nope and being pulled just heat motor and smile is all I need LOL

Do you still have the servo, its bracket, and throttle cable too? Of so, would you consider parting with those parts?

by Limey SE Wed May 15, 2024 10:48 am

zucchi wrote:
Limey SE wrote:
zucchi wrote:
Limey SE wrote:NO CRUISE
I see the transducer in the photo. Do you ever intend on putting the system back into service?

nope and being pulled just heat motor and smile is all I need LOL
Do you still have the servo, its bracket, and throttle cable too? Of so, would you consider parting with those parts?

give me a Buzz when avaialble and will sna; some pics and shoot them back to ya and yes I would part with it

Anthony 815 297 4437

by zucchi Wed May 15, 2024 11:08 am

Limey SE wrote:
zucchi wrote:
Limey SE wrote:
zucchi wrote:
Limey SE wrote:NO CRUISE
I see the transducer in the photo. Do you ever intend on putting the system back into service?

nope and being pulled just heat motor and smile is all I need LOL
Do you still have the servo, its bracket, and throttle cable too? Of so, would you consider parting with those parts?

give me a Buzz when avaialble and will sna; some pics and shoot them back to ya and yes I would part with it

Anthony 815 297 4437

Message sent.

by Limey SE Thu May 16, 2024 12:56 pm

X pipe Ordered yay (marketplace score) cheap and never used Pypes

Mufflers ordered even more Yay Holley dot com for Mufflers $37.76 each x 2 and there welded (will see about the quality) + Free shipping even more and more YAYYYYYYYYYY

Holley owns FlowMonster and Flow master and flowtech and just about all other pipe makers LOL so prob an Off branded Flowmaster but welded for under 38 bucks Its a win for Rusty.

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by Limey SE Tue May 28, 2024 11:21 pm

waiting for rain / bad weather to give me more than 3 hours to work on Rusty...everytime I say gonna work on the SE it starts clouding up and raining come inside sun shines 5 minutes later played that game all memorial weekend running from tornado's and all LOL

Anyway test fitting what I have so far and looks like its gonna work great

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by Limey SE Fri Jun 07, 2024 9:54 pm

Well after 6 years searching and searching and yet more searching I now have 15x10 Turbines direct drilled 4.75 ( small chevrolet ) to match my 8.5" originals I am beyond being Stokkkkedddd as all get out
275/50/15 10" wide rears and moved the 255/60/15 8.5" to the front I am very happy with them

I am grounded till Next week from wrenching hard on it I was Mounting the New Flex plate and went to move the transmission up to mount it and the strap broke holding it on the floor jack (have the extendable arm on the jack) so strapped it and as soon as I moved it snapped and slid off jack onto my sternum so been sore but hopefully by Monday I will start to feel better (this happened May27th) So Hopefully By monday feeling better .......

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by Limey SE Wed Jun 26, 2024 8:02 pm

Not stock for 1977 But I am sure glad I didn't sell these 73 Laguna upper door panel they were to nice so ended up using them.
I have to paint the other side lower when paint gets here but Holy Smokes they look good on there and have a spot for my phone and the Lines on them will match the Grand Prix seats

Also scored some free to me Never used carpet hopefully will work for me as it's from a 65 GTO I would think it would as it's a wide car also ....I am only out maybe 10 bucks if not for shipping so will see tomorrow when I empty interior out

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by Limey SE Wed Jun 26, 2024 8:07 pm

Have to get the darn Dakota Dash wired up before I can fire 454 up for break in arrrgg everything runs thru the Dakota module
.
.

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by Limey SE Thu Jun 27, 2024 7:50 pm

More work on SE today WHAT DO YOU DO WITH free carpet from a 65 GTO why you install in your 1977 Chevelle SE of course LOL ..... NOW Onto the floors now I know it fits cut the old out and put new in maybe by Monday have that done if rain holds off anyways.
Put other door panel on also (yeah I know I have to paint it yet but tired of looking at it without one FIRST FIME SINCE 1984 IT HAS HAD ONE ON THERE.
It finally is starting to resemble a car again instead of a storage bin LOL.
While I have interior out for floors will pull the rotten head liner down also THANK YOU Dave Ponczkowski for the Carpet

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by Limey SE Tue Jul 09, 2024 4:48 am

Well I couldn't take so much red mismatching the seats making it look like an Afterthought with seats So I decided to make Dash, console and rear package tray Black to tie in the seats to car

Dash is done now and ran out of paint for rest dang dash drank up two cans of paint or I would have bought more.... Red got it done in one can arrrgg can not figure that part out oh well gives time to do rest this weekend and let dash cure more

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by Limey SE Thu Jul 25, 2024 1:49 am

Well trying out some Rust convertor have to get this taken care of before there's nothing to take of LOL

Well Rusty is fixing to lose its rust Started the process tonight still kinda tacky in pictures will be in sealer in 48 hours hopefully can says let cure for 24 hours gonna Do Roof tomorrow if this works .....

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by zucchi Thu Jul 25, 2024 8:38 am

Harbor Freight…

Being that I'm a chemist, I was compelled to look into this stuff – occupational habit.

This is essentially naval jelly in an aerosol can; the active ingredient is phosphoric acid. The mechanism is it reacts with rust to form iron phosphate and water. The water evaporates leaving a black iron phosphate coating which is how parkerizing works.

Just curious, do the directions say anything about washing/rinsing after the product has done its thing?

by 76Chevelle2Tone Thu Jul 25, 2024 12:26 pm

Zucchi,

Should the rust be sanded down somewhat or just left untouched before application of the parkerizing agents? In other words how deeply does the chemical penetrate?

by Limey SE Thu Jul 25, 2024 12:45 pm

From there Data Sheet

Rust converter is a chemical emulsion that reacts with rusty iron or steel to stop the corrosion process in its place. A phosphoric acid emulsion, it reacts with the iron oxide (rust) to convert it to a more stable polymeric compound. The reaction eventually turns the former rusty metal black, after which it can be painted. In fact, the converted metal will eventually begin to rust again if it is not painted or otherwise sealed, as the coating is not considered permanent.

Rust converter works only on rusty metal, however, and therefore will not react with non-oxidized metal, paint, or other materials. This means it requires a minimum of surface preparation before use. Simply remove any loose material (rusty scale, paint flakes, dirt) with a wire brush and then clean and degrease the area to be treated. Once the rust has fully converted (about 48 hours in total), simply wipe it clean before painting.

by Limey SE Thu Jul 25, 2024 12:46 pm

It will be sanded smooth and primed / sealed ready for paint ....
This had to get done for it was at that point of stop it now or have to fix it in the very near future

by 76Chevelle2Tone Thu Jul 25, 2024 12:59 pm

Limey SE wrote:It will be sanded smooth and primed / sealed ready for paint ....
This had to get done for it was at that point of stop it now or have to fix it in the very near future

Limey

I'm not questioning the need to stop rusting but just a technical question. How deeply can the conversion process with the rust layer go; or alternatively, what is the maximum thickness of the rust layer that is fully convertible through surface application?

by Limey SE Thu Jul 25, 2024 1:09 pm

That's a good question I am assuming it converts all of it guess I have to Call Eastwood again to clarify

by zucchi Thu Jul 25, 2024 1:17 pm

Limey SE wrote:From there Data Sheet…
Once the rust has fully converted (about 48 hours in total), simply wipe it clean before painting.

Sounds almost too easy. Simply wiping won't remove every trace of acid. Mind you, I'm not saying they're wrong or misleading, it's just that any kind of acid, organic or mineral, will still have acidic properties unless it's been neutralized.

Were I to use this stuff, I would prepare a bucket of a weak baking soda solution – say 3 or 4 tablespoons per gallon of water – then use a nylon brush – like you would use to scrub a floor – on the treated areas with liberal amounts of the solution. I would follow that with liberal rinsing using LOTS of HOT water, wiping it dry then letting it finish drying outside in direct sunshine.

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