Pulling sbc

by JF74chevelle Wed Sep 06, 2017 1:16 am

Started pulling my motor today to install the new 357 i built. So far everything has gone smoothly and no broke bolts or anything catastrophic. Only reason I didn't get it out today because I needed another jack to support the trans. Once I get the motor out I'll put on the new mounts and clean the engine bay. Should I prine the oil pump with the engine on the stand or no?

by bigredlaguna Wed Sep 06, 2017 1:29 am

Your preference on in/out of the car for priming the oil system. Just make sure to turn the engine over while pumping oil and verify oil flow through each pushrod.

by Joe73 Wed Sep 06, 2017 8:29 am

While priming, make sure you have proper oil pressure. Rotate the engine a quarter turn and check pressure, then another quarter turn until you do 2 or 3 revolutions. I also like to check, with the intake off, I mark each lifter at 12 o'clock. Rotate the engine once and make sure each lifter rotates in it's bore. If one isn't rotating it will wipe a lobe. Ran into that a couple times. People usually don't check for lifter rotation.

by JF74chevelle Wed Sep 06, 2017 11:29 am

Joe73 wrote:While priming, make sure you have proper oil pressure. Rotate the engine a quarter turn and check pressure, then another quarter turn until you do 2 or 3 revolutions. I also like to check, with the intake off, I mark each lifter at 12 o'clock. Rotate the engine once and make sure each lifter rotates in it's bore. If one isn't rotating it will wipe a lobe. Ran into that a couple times. People usually don't check for lifter rotation.

so I should be priming the motor with the intake off? And if the lifter isn't rotating is the lifter bore too tight? How would I fix?

by Joe73 Wed Sep 06, 2017 11:35 am

I usually check for rotation before I put the intake on. Make sure your valve lash is set before you start. I used to just put a dot from a sharpie on the edge of he lifter. All the dots facing towards the center (cam area) that way when they rotate they are easy to notice. But now I'd use a dot of a white paint pen since the eyesight isnt getting any better. LOL. If its not rotating I'd take it out, feel the inside of the bore and check the perimeter of the lifter. It has to rotate smoothly.
I dont see why you cant prime it while checking. Again, I do it a 1/4 turn, make sure I have pressure, 1/4 turn make sure I have pressure. 2 revolutions usually does it and now all your bearing surfaces have oil. And you will also see the lifters rotating. Oil should also be coming out the top of the pushrods at the rockers.

by JF74chevelle Wed Sep 06, 2017 12:11 pm

Joe73 wrote:I usually check for rotation before I put the intake on. Make sure your valve lash is set before you start. I used to just put a dot from a sharpie on the edge of he lifter. All the dots facing towards the center (cam area) that way when they rotate they are easy to notice. But now I'd use a dot of a white paint pen since the eyesight isnt getting any better. LOL. If its not rotating I'd take it out, feel the inside of the bore and check the perimeter of the lifter. It has to rotate smoothly.
I dont see why you cant prime it while checking. Again, I do it a 1/4 turn, make sure I have pressure, 1/4 turn make sure I have pressure. 2 revolutions usually does it and now all your bearing surfaces have oil. And you will also see the lifters rotating. Oil should also be coming out the top of the pushrods at the rockers.

Okay thank you joe, I'll keep you guys posted.

by JF74chevelle Fri Sep 08, 2017 11:56 pm

I got the motor out and the new one in. Trans is connected. Put Intake on and now I'm battling the headers. Thebolts don't seem to be lining up

by bigredlaguna Sat Sep 09, 2017 1:57 pm

I have had to ream out the bolt holes on headers before, sometimes you get real close to breaking through to the inside diameter of the pipe.

Are you leaving the bolts loose until all are started first? I usually put the first and last ones in, then hang the gasket on those, then get the rest started before tightening.

by JF74chevelle Sat Sep 09, 2017 6:23 pm

bigredlaguna wrote:I have had to ream out the bolt holes on headers before, sometimes you get real close to breaking through to the inside diameter of the pipe.

Are you leaving the bolts loose until all are started first? I usually put the first and last ones in, then hang the gasket on those, then get the rest started before tightening.

I've tried that but the holes are stilll way off. I think I'll try to cut the flange to get them to fit.

by Dinomyte Sun Sep 10, 2017 6:39 pm

I've only built one engine, and the advice I got was to pull the plugs and crank the starter to prime everything. With no plugs there isn't much resistance. . . just my $0.02 worth.

As for the headers as above just start the bolts.

by Joe73 Sun Sep 10, 2017 6:42 pm

I would only use an engine primer and rotate it by hand while checking oil pressure. The least amount of turns the better. You dont want to rub off all the cams moly lube. I hope you used moly lube (the grey paste stuff) and not the red stuff that comes with some cames.
Also, before firing it up I also like to have the biggest fan I can find placed right in front of the radiator pushing air through it. And straight water in the rad is fine. Straight water is the best for absorbing and releasing heat. You can always put antifreeze in later.

by JF74chevelle Sun Sep 10, 2017 11:38 pm

Joe73 wrote:I would only use an engine primer and rotate it by hand while checking oil pressure. The least amount of turns the better. You dont want to rub off all the cams moly lube. I hope you used moly lube (the grey paste stuff) and not the red stuff that comes with some cames.
Also, before firing it up I also like to have the biggest fan I can find placed right in front of the radiator pushing air through it. And straight water in the rad is fine. Straight water is the best for absorbing and releasing heat. You can always put antifreeze in later.

No I went out to the only speed shop in town and bought two tubes of moly lube.

by bracketchev1221 Mon Sep 11, 2017 7:40 pm

It's a microscopic layer of moly lube that's needed. After the first rotation of the engine, spring pressure squeezes it out. What's left is trapped in the valleys created by the machining of the parts. I know we all feel better gooping up the cam, but by the time you rotate it around to adjust the valves, it's gone.

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