New motor break in

by JF74chevelle Wed Aug 23, 2017 5:10 pm

My new 357 is ready to be dropped in just need to find time. I have joe Gibbs 5w30 break in oil along with comp cams oil additive for the flat tappet. I understand you need it to fire up immediately and rev to 2k-2,500 for 20 mins or so. But what is the procedure after the cam break in? Should I drain the oil then what do I need to do to seat the rings?

by pila Wed Aug 23, 2017 7:49 pm

One thing NOT to do, is let id idle !!!~~ The run at or around 2000 RPM is OK, and it's usually recommended to vary the speed a bit during the break in period.
I usually drop the oil & filter after the break in run, cut the filter & check for any unusual amount of metal ( there will be some usually, but not much from assembly...)
I suppose you could leave the oil in there, if it's the good break in stuff.

by JF74chevelle Wed Aug 23, 2017 8:13 pm

I was planning to keep the revs between 2000 and 2700. Definitely check the filter to look for abnormal metal bits.

by fasrnur Wed Aug 23, 2017 8:20 pm

I was taught by a man that was very well know for his roundy round motors and he always told me that after you break in the cam, drive it like you're going to drive it. If you're going to baby it, baby it. If you're going to beat on it, beat on it. I've done it for years and never blown up an engine yet. He taught me well I guess.

by JF74chevelle Wed Aug 23, 2017 8:25 pm

That's what I've heard from many people. If the rings aren't seated by the time the cam break in is over then they have a problem.

by fasrnur Wed Aug 23, 2017 8:55 pm

I'm sure you didn't use "Cast" rings right? Most, if not all, people these days use "Moly" rings. The old cast rings would require a break in period in order to seat them. The new moly rings are seated almost instantly and no need for break in period on them. Like you said, if by the time the cam is broke in, you should be good to go.

by JF74chevelle Wed Aug 23, 2017 9:14 pm

No I used Hastings moly rings.

by bracketchev1221 Wed Aug 23, 2017 9:50 pm

Break in the cam varying rpm all over. Then change the oil and beat the snot out of it. My engine was warmed up on the dyno and then shut off and the valve lash checked. It was then refired and pulled to 6800 where it made 964 hp. It was shut off, a jet change was made and it was run to 7500 where it made 978 hp at 7200 rpm. That was the break in it got.

by JF74chevelle Wed Aug 23, 2017 11:25 pm

bracketchev1221 wrote:Break in the cam varying rpm all over. Then change the oil and beat the snot out of it. My engine was warmed up on the dyno and then shut off and the valve lash checked. It was then refired and pulled to 6800 where it made 964 hp. It was shut off, a jet change was made and it was run to 7500 where it made 978 hp at 7200 rpm. That was the break in it got.

Sounds good thank you for the help guys

by pila Thu Aug 24, 2017 10:37 pm

X2 on what Ray said. Don't baby it after break in !! Very Happy

by Joe73 Sat Aug 26, 2017 10:25 am

Also, did you plug the oil bypass?

by JF74chevelle Sun Aug 27, 2017 7:40 pm

Joe73 wrote:Also, did you plug the oil bypass?

No I didn't. Should I?

by Joe73 Sun Aug 27, 2017 7:54 pm

I always do. That way ALL the oil has to go through the filter. And if anything lets loose there's a chance it wont circulate through the engine and wipe everything out. New motor break in Bypass10

by bigredlaguna Sun Aug 27, 2017 9:15 pm

You shouldn't worry too much about the oil bypass. It is an easy task to do if you do decide to plug it. The main thing is the spring must have enough pressure to prevent bypass in most circumstances. The spec I have seen is the oil bypass opens when there is a pressure differential of 10 psi.

The risk of plugging the bypass is that if the filter gets plugged enough to block oil flow, it will explode, leak, or otherwise deny oil to the engine.

by fasrnur Sun Aug 27, 2017 9:56 pm

I've plugged the oil bypass on all of my small blocks and big blocks for over 40 years now and probably put on close to 200 thousand miles between all of them without any problems. Some say don't, some say do, but I'm not afraid of this modification.

by pila Sun Aug 27, 2017 11:13 pm

For people like us, who tend to do the right thing with our engines, like keeping up with oil changes, and general preventive maintenance, the plugged by pass is a fine way to keep clean oil in the system...

by bigredlaguna Sun Aug 27, 2017 11:30 pm

I agree about proper maintenance eliminating the need for a bypass. The factory did it this way to cover their butts over people who don't.

I have seen on other forums where people have the opinion that if the oil is good enough to prevent wear in the first place, then there isn't a need for a filter at all. I am not willing to go that far, but it's out there.

by Joe73 Mon Aug 28, 2017 6:35 am

I think its good insurance. I've read where guys breaking in flat tappets had a problem and wiped a lobe for whatever reason. They caught it early and the filter caught the fragments and they didnt have any damage to his crank or rod bearings.
I think its cheap insurance. I know the moly lube on the cam does get stuck in a good filter. The red cheap lube just flows without problems and also tends to "sag" and drip off the cam if the motor sits too long after building and not breaking in.
Its so easy and cheap to do. Google it and make a decision.

by JF74chevelle Mon Aug 28, 2017 4:56 pm

Maybe I should plug it, was planning to change oil after cam break in. Hopefully I'll have the motor in soon.

by pila Mon Aug 28, 2017 5:53 pm

Many (most) engines didn't have a full flow filter until the mid 50s, and had the by-pass filter can, usually mounted on the engine someplace. I believe that '56 was the first full flow filter on the SBC, with the '55 having no place on the block, in that first year. That's why we see that one odd-ball gasket half in the pan gasket sets Very Happy

Cadillac was even slower about a full flow filter, and didn't have one until 1960..
Of course we changed oil at 1000 miles in the 40s & 50s etc. Kendall came out with there "2000 mile oil" !! Times have sure changed in the way oil is made.. Very Happy

by JF74chevelle Mon Aug 28, 2017 11:34 pm

Also another question how do you get the frame to motor mount bolts out? I bought new ones from opgi along with ARP bolts

by bracketchev1221 Tue Aug 29, 2017 6:16 am

Generally with a long extension and a swivel socket stuck through the control arm hole or any other hole that will allow you to get at the nut on the inside of the frame.

by Joe73 Tue Aug 29, 2017 6:30 am

I agree with Ray. Thats exactly how I've done it with the control arms still installed. And using a swivel socket, like Ray states, to me is also key. When you use a swivel with a socket, the socket sometimes falls off and then you spend time looking for it. A swivel socket is one piece and easier to deal with.

by JF74chevelle Tue Aug 29, 2017 1:53 pm

Okay thanks guys

by Dinomyte Sun Sep 10, 2017 6:53 pm

bracketchev1221 wrote:Generally with a long extension and a swivel socket stuck through the control arm hole or any other hole that will allow you to get at the nut on the inside of the frame.

I hope this works for you. We spent the better part of an afternoon working at this method and then pulled the control arms to do it.

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