motor mounts
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G3GM :: G3 Tech :: Engine & Driveline
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motor mounts
The july issue of Hot Rod has a good read on BB motor mounts for the 73 & 74's. Shows difference between SB & BB. Anyone considering a swap might want to read it. It does make a difference with header fitment.
73ss- G3GM Enthusiast
- Street Cred : 11
Re: motor mounts
I couldn't find the article online are the right mounts available for the swap?
SSTOOLMAN- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 7
Re: motor mounts
Hey toolman, I don't think you can see current issues on-line. It was in the "pit stop" section if I recall. Yes the mounts are available, I got mine from Advance. Made in the USA believe it or not.
I ran SB mounts on mine for years, never knew there was a difference until I replaced my headers. (My car was originally SB) I went with a larger tube/length header and they would no longer fit. I swapped out the frame mounts for the correct BB mounts and all was good. It raised the motor a good 1/4" or so. I ended up removing the lower control arms to get to the nuts inside the frame holding the mounts on. You might be able to get to them with the LCA's in place but it would most likely make you start swearing. I replaced my LCA bushings while I was at it. they needed to be done anyhow.
I ran SB mounts on mine for years, never knew there was a difference until I replaced my headers. (My car was originally SB) I went with a larger tube/length header and they would no longer fit. I swapped out the frame mounts for the correct BB mounts and all was good. It raised the motor a good 1/4" or so. I ended up removing the lower control arms to get to the nuts inside the frame holding the mounts on. You might be able to get to them with the LCA's in place but it would most likely make you start swearing. I replaced my LCA bushings while I was at it. they needed to be done anyhow.
73ss- G3GM Enthusiast
- Street Cred : 11
Re: motor mounts
Ok good to know, I am bouncing the idea around of putting in a BB in. Yeah I changed my lower mounts when I put my sb crate in, switched out to polyurethane. With the motor out it wasn't easy. I spun the bolts with the air wrench and put side pressure on them until the nuts caught and spun out. Even more fun getting the nuts back on the new bolts and tight.
SSTOOLMAN- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 7
Re: motor mounts
I've done motor mounts several times with the motor still in the car. It is a pain but I found that even with the lower control arms installed it can be done. Obviously easier with 2 people. I found that if you use a long, single piece extension (not two extensions together because they will fall apart and cause more frustration) and use a swivel socket on the end. Not a swivel with a socket on it but a swivel with the built on socket. So, just 2 pieces. An extension and a swivel socket. I also like to put a couple wraps of masking tape around the swivel portion so it doesnt flop around and it would be easier to "adjust" to get in there. Its not too bad of a job. Just have to get the right angle.
Just my opinion.
Just my opinion.
Joe73- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 83
TW Monte likes this post
Re: motor mounts
Here's a link to the article about 3rd Gen A-Body motor mounts:
Big block vs Small block motor mounts
Big block vs Small block motor mounts
TW Monte- G3GM Member
- Street Cred : 0
Re: motor mounts
Interesting.
Good to know.
By the way, a useful tech tip for dealing with the mount-to-frame nuts and bolts is to use a flex socket open end wrench.
I replaced the engine mounts the last time I had the engine out to rebuild it. I used a U-joint socket extension to angle the socket just right so it would squarely sit on the bolt head that's inside the frame. It took about an hour to remove one bolt by myself but it worked. I thought, "there has to be a better way." For me, the better way was the flex-socket. With that wrench on the bolt and a regular ratchet on the nut, it took about an hour to remove the remaining five bolts and only about an hour to install the new mounts.
One additional low-tech tip for getting the bolt into the hole from inside the frame just to get it started; use some masking tape to keep it in place on the open-end of the wrench. Once you guide it through the hole and the mount, finger thread the nut on, then pull the wrench off taking the tape with it.
Good to know.
By the way, a useful tech tip for dealing with the mount-to-frame nuts and bolts is to use a flex socket open end wrench.
I replaced the engine mounts the last time I had the engine out to rebuild it. I used a U-joint socket extension to angle the socket just right so it would squarely sit on the bolt head that's inside the frame. It took about an hour to remove one bolt by myself but it worked. I thought, "there has to be a better way." For me, the better way was the flex-socket. With that wrench on the bolt and a regular ratchet on the nut, it took about an hour to remove the remaining five bolts and only about an hour to install the new mounts.
One additional low-tech tip for getting the bolt into the hole from inside the frame just to get it started; use some masking tape to keep it in place on the open-end of the wrench. Once you guide it through the hole and the mount, finger thread the nut on, then pull the wrench off taking the tape with it.
zucchi- G3GM Member
- Street Cred : 4
TW Monte likes this post
G3GM :: G3 Tech :: Engine & Driveline
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